As you would expect from the land of the Tango (the dance, not the drink)
Argentina produces "full-blooded", seductive wines of spice and
passion. Like their neighbours across the Andes in Chile, they produce excellent
value, mostly red but increasingly white, varietal wines across all
price points.
As the 5th largest wine producing nation in the world
Argentina was long renowned for the quantity rather than quality of its wines.
Since the 1990s Argentina has benefited enormously from the influx of
investment and expertise - seemingly from every famous wine region in the
world – combined with modern technology and better vineyard management
and winemaking techniques. Apart from a couple of blips - notably the 1998 El
Niño and the economic crisis of 2001-2 - it has been a heady rise even
if a general unwillingness to reduce yields has meant that its progress has
been slower than hoped. So far it has emulated Chile’s success but has
not yet, by a long chalk, surpassed it. The next Australia? Only time will
tell.
Planted with vines by the Spanish colonisers in the mid 16th
century, it was the widespread immigration from Italy and Spain in the
mid-19th century (and later France) that bestowed Argentina with
such an eclectic mix of grape varieties. The country’s trump
card has turned out to be the old Bordeaux variety Malbec which, outside of Cahors, has never really made its
mark in its French homeland. In Argentina it seems to have found its
spiritual home, producing intense, opulent wines with refreshing acidity and
increasing sophistication.In the hands of top producers and in increasingly
good (and high) single vineyard sites it is yielding some truly fine wines.
The underrated Bonarda is Argentina’s second most-planted
variety, although the next best qualitatively are the improving Cabernet Sauvignon and
Syrah, followed
by Merlot, Tempranillo, Sangiovese, Pinot Noir and
Barbera. The most interesting whites come from the fruity, floral
Torrontés grape, but the there are some very fine wines from the
ubiquitous Chardonnay, and it is the
latter that looks set to dominate in years to come. Other white varieties
include Sauvignon
Blanc (in the coolest sites), Chenin Blanc, Sémillon, Pinot Gris
and Viognier.
Much of Argentina is semi-desert and very dry and hot, even in the foothills
of the Andes; it is only the high altitude of the vineyards and the cooling
influence of the mountains that enables quality wines to be made. Irrigation is
a must but it is only now that the vital step of limiting this to reduce yields
is being followed by more than a small minority.
The region around Mendoza accounts for about
70% of Argentina’s wine production, although cooler, wetter areas
like Patagonia in the south and Salta in the far north
(home to the world’s highest vineyards at an astonishing 3000m) are
increasingly influential even if quantity remains small. Salta produces very
good Torrontés and Cabernet Sauvignon, while Patagonia, and
particularly Rio Negro, produces elegant whites and structured
reds.
In Mendoza, a lot of poor quality wine is still produced for domestic
consumption but the sub-region of Luján de Cuyo produces some
lovely velvety Malbecs
while the cool, gravelly Maipú is best for Cabernet
Sauvignon. The most exciting area in Mendoza for fine reds and whites,
however, is the Uco Valley 60km south of the city. Its sub-region of
Tupungato also produces Argentina’s best Chardonnay.
Recommended Producers:
Dom
Domenico, Pulenta, Jacques &
François Lurton's Santa Celina.
