Gevrey-Chambertin is the largest wine-producing village in Burgundy’s
Côte d'Or, with its vineyards spilling over into the next door commune
of Brochon.
Located in the far north of the Côtes de Nuits above Morey St
Denis, classic Gevrey Chambertin is typically deeper in colour, firmer in
body and more tannic in structure than most red Burgundy. The best can develop
into the richest, most complete and long-lived Pinot Noir in the world.
This is largely thanks to the iron-rich clay soils, though much depends on
whether the vineyard is located on either the steeper slopes (Evocelles,
Clos St Jacques) or the richer, flatter soils (Clos Prieur,
Combottes).
Whereas in the past there have been numerous underperformers in
Gevrey-Chambertin, exploiting the reputation of this famous village and its
iconic Grand Crus, today there are many fine sources to choose from, and
overall quality is higher than ever.
Gevrey-Chambertin’s greatest Grand Cru is named after the field of
the monk Bertin (Champ de Bertin). In 1847 Gevrey appended the name of
this illustrious vineyard, Chambertin, starting a trend for the other
main villages to follow. Le Chambertin may not be quite as sumptuous as
Musigny or Richebourg or as divinely elegant as La Tâche or Romanée
St Vivant, but it is matched only by the legendary Romanée-Conti for
completeness and luscious intensity.
In all Gevrey boasts an impressive 9 Grands Crus, with the name of
Chambertin retaining a regal omnipresence throughout its finest vineyard names.
The other truly great Grand Cru is Chambertin Clos de Bèze which has the
right to sell its wines simply as ‘Chambertin’ and is the only wine allowed to
put the Chambertin name before, rather than after, its own. Situated
slightly further up the hill, the wines are fractionally less powerful but are
full of sensual charm and finesse.
Quality-wise the next best are generally acknowledged to be Mazis- (or
Mazy-) Chambertin and Latricières-Chambertin. The former is
incredibly concentrated and very fine but its structure is a little less firm
than Le Chambertin. Latricières is less about power, although it can be
explosively fruity, and more about an entrancing silkiness.
Situated slightly higher up the slope, Ruchottes-Chambertin is
impressively rich, stylish and slightly angular. The tiny
Griottes-Chambertin, which owes its name to the grill-pan shape of the
vineyard rather than the wine’s Griottes cherry aroma, is lower down the slope
and boasts a velvety texture and rich fruit reminiscent of Chambertin itself.
It is generally better than the lighter although wonderfully fragrant
Chapelle-Chambertin and Gevrey’s largest Grand Cru, the pure and
seductive (if variable) Charmes-Chambertin.
Gevrey also has some outstanding Premier Crus on the
south-east-facing slopes above the town. Les Cazetiers and especially
Clos St Jacques produce some exceptional wines. Indeed Armand
Rousseau, who pioneered domaine bottling here in the 1930s and is still one
of the region’s very best producers, often sells his Clos St Jacques for more
than several of his Grand Crus.
Drinking dates for these wines vary, but Grand Crus are generally best from
at least 10 to 25 years, Premier Crus from 8 to 20 years and village wines from
5 to 12 years.
- 315 hectares of village Gevrey Chambertin.
- 84 hectares of Premier Cru vineyards (20 in all). Best
vineyards include Clos St Jacques, Lavaux St Jacques, Combottes, Corbeaux,
Cherbaudes, Cazetiers.
- 55 hectares of Grand Cru vineyards - Chambertin, Chambertin Clos de
Bèze, Latricières-Chambertin, Ruchottes-Chambertin, Mazis-Chambertin,
Charmes-Chambertin, Mazoyères-Chambertin, Chapelle-Chambertin,
Griottes-Chambertin..
- Recommended Producers: Bachelet, Dugat, Esmonin, Mortet, Rossignol Trapet, Rousseau, Serafin
- Recommended Restaurants : Chez Guy (good wine list), Rôtisserie du
Chambertin (and Bistro)
