Chassagne Montrachet

When it comes to the world's greatest white wines, the border between Chassagne and Puligny is the x that marks the spot, the treasure at the end of the rainbow. Within a few hundred metres lie five wonderful Grand Crus, 3 of which are in Chassagne. They are led by the luscious, perfumed, but variable, Le Montrachet, to which Chassagne gained permission in 1879, along with Puligny, to hyphenate its name.

Both Montrachet and the rich, nutty, honeyed Bâtard Montrachet are shared between Chassagne and Puligny. The fragrant, very fine and rare Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet however, lies entirely within Chassagne's borders. The Grand Crus have their own appellations which is why Chassagne (or Puligny) does not appear on the label.

Although the most southerly of the three great names of the Côte de Beaune, Chassagne's style is often described as lying between that of Puligny-Montrachet and Meursault: less fine than Puligny, less rich than Meursault but containing elements of both. Chassagne is minerally yet succulent, often floral with hints of hazelnuts.  Despite a bevy of very good Premier Crus, it is not as good or famous, overall, as Meursault and Puligny, but it is usually extremely good value. Grand Crus should not be opened before 8 years of age and can last for 20 or more. Premier Crus are at their best from 5 to 15 years of age; village wines from 3 to 8. 

Perhaps surprisingly, given that the name Montrachet is so synonymous with white wine, much of the soil in Chassagne is more suited to Pinot Noir than Chardonnay. Indeed it was only really in the second half of the 20^th century that white wines began to dominate here. The reds have a firm tannic style that needs time to soften, with the best examples coming from the Premier Crus Morgeot, Boudriotte and Clos St Jean. At their best they combine the weight of the Côte de Nuits with the suppleness of the Côte de Beaune.

• 180 hectares of village Chassagne-Montrachet.
• 159 hectares of Premier Cru vineyards. Several of the larger ones are subdivided and may be cited under various different names. Best vineyards include Caillerets, Ruchottes, Chaumées, La Boudriotte.
• 11 hectares of Grand Cru vineyards - Le Montrachet (part), Bâtard-Montrachet (part) and Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet.
• Recommended Producers:  Ramonet, Niellon.
• Recommended Restaurant: Le Chassagne (good cuisine and wine list).