Rioja is known primarily for its reds although it also makes white wines
from the Viura and Malvasia grapes and rosés mainly
from Garnacha. Most
wineries (bodegas) have their own distinct red wine formula, but are
normally a combination of Tempranillo,
Garnacha and sometimes Graciano. Other red varieties recently
approved into the DOCa regulations are the little known Maturana Tinta,
Maturana Parda, and Monastel (not Monastrell). The most important of these by
far is the king of native Spanish varieties, Tempranillo, which imbues the
wines with complex and concentrated fruit flavours
The Garnacha, meanwhile, bestows the wines with warm, ripe fruit and adds an
alcohol punch. Graciano is an ameliorateur grape (one that is added,
often in small proportions, to add a little something to the final blend) and
is found mainly in Reserva and Gran Reserva wines, albeit in small
quantities (2%-5%), adding freshness, aroma and enhancing the wines' ageing
potential.
Crianza wines are aged for 1 year in oak followed by maturation for 1
year in bottle before being released for sale. Reservas must spend a
minimum of 3 years ageing before release, at least one of which should be in
oak casks. Finally, Gran Reservas, which are only produced in the finest
vintages, must spend at least 5 years maturing, of which at least two must be
in oak.
Geographically, Rioja is divided in to three districts: Alavesa,
Alta and Baja. Rioja Alavesa lies in the northwest of the
La Rioja region in the Basque province of Alava. Along with Rioja Alta,
it is the heartland of the Tempranillo grape. Rioja Alta, to the north-west and
south of the Ebro River in the province of La Rioja, stretches as far as the
city of Logroño. Elegance and poise is the hallmark of wines made here
with Rioja Alta Tempranillo. Mazuelo (Carignan) is occasionally added to wines
from this area to add tannins and colour. Rioja Baja is located to the
south-east, is the hottest of the three districts and specialises in
Garnacha.
Rioja has witnessed a broad stylistic evolution over the years. The
classic Riojas pioneered by Murrieta and
Riscal in the 19th century were distinguished by long oak
barrel ageing whereas the modern style, represented by Marques de
Caceres since 1970, showcases the fruit and freshness of Tempranillo,
keeping oak ageing to the legal minimum. The post-modern school that emerged in
the late 1990s from producers like Palacios
Remondo and Finca
Allende concentrate on making wines from old vines or specific vineyard
plots to accentuate the terroir, and using larger proportions of
minority varietals such as Graciano.
The `alta expression' wines, pioneered by Finca Allende (among others) and later taken up
by almost every other producer in Rioja, represent the new flagship category in
Rioja. Alongside the traditional Gran Reservas, alta expression wines
are limited production and come from low-yielding vines, often from a single
vineyard, and are hand-picked. Excellent examples of this style are Artadi's Pagos Viejos and
El Pison.
However, modernisation has not held back the continuation of successful
traditional styles as well. Happily, long-established houses such as La Rioja Alta, CVNE and Marques de Vargas
continue to make graceful, old style wines better than ever before.
White Rioja is typically produced by the Viura grape which must comprise at
leasr 51% of the blend; the rest can be made up by other, recently authorised
varieties, namely, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and Verdejo, as well as the
native Maturana Blanca, Tempranillo Blanco, and Turruntés (not
Torrontés).
Recommended Producers:
Finca Allende, Amezola de la Mora,
Artadi, CVNE, Marques de Vargas, Palacios Remondo, La Rioja Alta, Murrieta.
