The Spirit of Christmas Past

My story begins long before Dickens penned his tale of that miserly Scrooge. Besides, you’ll find no hint of meanness here – it’s a Berrys’ tradition to be generous at Christmas. So, pour yourself a glass of something rich and rubine, and let your mind drift back to 1698, the year our St James’s Street shop was founded. 

Widow Bourne’s coffee shop it may have been, but peek through the window on this cold December night and I wager you’ll see her sharing something a pinch stronger with her daughter Elizabeth and future son-in-law William Pickering. A glass of the then-popular pale, pinkish still wine of the Champagne region perhaps, or the newly fashionable drink popular with our Dutch king, London Gin?

When we look again through the shop window, it’s 1810. My great, great, great grandfather, George Berry, has taken over the running of the business, and he’s busily showing off his new imports from Madeira, Port, Sherry and Cognac. I’m reminded of how quickly the shop shelves emptied of Berrys’ Grande Champagne Cognac last Christmas. We use a different supplier now, of course, but they have been with us for nearly a century! 

100 years can pass quickly indeed, and in the blink of an eye we’re transported to 1903. George’s grandson, Henry, would have enjoyed an even greater selection of imported liquors. But in my mind’s eye, I see him pouring a tot of The King’s Ginger that he invented that year at the behest of King Edward VII. 

From 1914, the ‘golden partnership’of Major Hugh Rudd, Francis Berry (my grandfather) and his innovative cousin Charles Walter Berry brought many new wines through the shop’s doors. Our records from 1931 show they enjoyed bottles of 1921 Pol Roger, 1921 Bernkasteler Doktor, 1919 Gevrey Chambertin, 1875 Margaux and an 1858 Cognac. Given their invention of Cutty Sark Scots Whisky in 1923, I imagine they were enjoying a glass or two of that as well. 

All this reminiscing gets me wondering what, in decades to come, my descendants will be picturing. Well, let me help them a little. This year, my family and I will be spending Christmas with the classics: a fine bottle of Burgundy - 2004 Vosne-Romanée, Jean Grivot  and a glass or two of 1999 Ch. Léoville-Poyferré - a mature Cru Classé Claret. 

We’ll certainly be opening a magnum of the 2002 Berrys’ United Kingdom Cuvée, Grand Cru, Champagne too when my nephew arrives back from Hong Kong. Finally, no celebratory meal would be complete without a bottle of the aforementioned William Pickering’s 20-year-old Tawny Port to go with the cheese. 

Sometimes I think things were simpler in the old days, but ordering really is so much easier now. My ancestors would have had to send a carriage to No. 3 to collect their wine – all I have to do is press a few buttons on bbr.com. The innovative Charles Walter would be fascinated by such developments; I do hope that my descendants will be equally intrigued by our vinous exploits in 300 years’ time. 

Simon Berry, Chairman

View below the list of the wines mentioned by Simon Berry