In a description that could only have been invented by the French, the
Crus Bourgeois are Médoc châteaux that produce wines of typicity and
quality but generally without the breed of their finer aristocratic cousins
from the 1855 Classification.
Born in 1932 in response to the dire market conditions of the post-war and
post-Depression years, the purpose of the Cru Bourgeois classification was to
identify and give a commercial boost to these lesser known estates. Although
never officially ratified by the Agriculture Ministry, it is a name that has
struck a chord with consumers, providing a beacon to guide them through the
thousands of Bordeaux's Petits Châteaux.
Even if there is a wide variation in quality, Cru Bourgeois wines have
increasingly built a reputation for quality and value. Today, they represent
about 40% of the Médoc's total production.
The history of the Cru Bourgeois classification has been rocky, to say the
least. The 1932 classification designated 444 estates as Cru Bourgeois but by
the 1960s over 300 had been absorbed into other estates or had converted their
land away from viticulture. However, with the popularity and quality of Cru
Bourgeois wines at an all-time high a new classification was introduced in 2003
by the Alliance des Crus Bourgeois.
They split the wine into three tiers: Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnel, Cru
Bourgeois Supérieur and Cru Bourgeois. It was also decided that the
classification would be redone every 12 years. Rating the estates based on
tasting each property's wines from 1994-1999, the Alliance showed an admirable
strictness rarely seen in wine classifications. Of the 490 châteaux that
applied for Cru Bourgeois status the Alliance accepted only 247. In the final
reckoning there were 9 Crus Bourgeois Exceptionels, 87 Crus Bourgeois
Supérieurs and 151 Crus Bourgeois.
All was not sweetness and light, however. Estates that had been recently
purchased, like Jean-Christophe Mau's Ch. Preuillac, complained bitterly
(and reasonably) that tasting only up to the 1999 vintage discriminated against
those estates which had recently improved. In 2004 a Bordeaux court found in
favour of the 76 estates who had complained. It declared their ranking within
the new classification void, but overall declared the classification
sound.
In 2007, however, a Bordeaux magistrate decided that the whole process had been
tainted by partiality and conflict of interest and thus decreed the whole 2003
Crus Bourgeois classification null and void. Soon afterwards the French fraud
office dealt the classification a seemingly mortal blow by banning the use of
the term 'Cru Bourgeois' altogether. Responding with admirable speed but
a misleading fudge, the Alliance des Crus Bourgeois swiftly proposed a rather
odd new term 'Label Cru Bourgeois' which would be 'not a
classification but a mark of quality' and would be based on production and
quality standards, awarded each year by tasting.
It was all getting very confusing but thankfully the end of February 2008 seems
to have brought hope and a light at the end of the tunnel for the beleaguered
Cru Bourgeois classification. Seemingly beset by a new spirit of cooperation
and conciliation, the Alliance des Crus Bourgeois have proposed a format for
the Cru Bourgeois classification to be reintroduced in 2009 that has been
agreed by 180 estates from the defunct 2003 ranking along with 95 new members.
Exact details remain sketchy but this single-tier classification will be based
on a new set of production rules (including 18 months ageing in barrel) and
independent quality testing. The terms Cru Bourgeois Supérieur or Cru
Bourgeois Exceptionnel will no longer be used. The Alliance (and indeed
everyone else) is hoping for official approval from the French authorities for
the new plan by mid-2008.
Below is a list of the estates from the now defunct 2003
classification:
Cru
Bourgeois Exceptionnel
|
Château
Chasse-Spleen
Château
Haut-Marbuzet
Château
Labégorce-Zédé
Château
Les Ormes de Pez
Château
de Pez
|
Château
Phélan-Ségur
Château
Potensac
Château
Poujeaux
Château
Siran
|
Cru
Bourgeois Supérieur
|
Château
d'Agassac
Château
d'Angludet
Château
Anthonic
Château
d'Arche
Château
Arnauld
Château
d'Arsac
Château
Beaumont
Château
Beau-Site
Château
Biston-Brillette
Château
Le Boscq
Château
Bournac
Château
Brillette
Château
Cambon La Pelouse
Château
Cap Léon Veyrin
Château
La Cardonne
Château
Caronne Ste-Gemme
Château
Castera
Château
Chambert-Marbuzet
Château
Charmail
Château
Cissac
Château
Citran
Château
Clarke
Château
Clauzet
Château
Clément Pichon
Château
Colombier-Monpelou
Château
Coufran
Château
Le Crock
Château
Dutruch Grand Poujeaux
Château
d'Escurac
Château
Fonbadet
Château
Fonréaud
Château
Fourcas Dupré
Château
Fourcas Hosten
Château
Fourcas Loubaney
Château
du Glana
Château
Les Grands Chênes
Château
Gressier Grand Poujeaux
Château
Greysac
Château
La Gurgue
Château
Hanteillanc
Château
Haut-Bages Monpelou
Château
La Haye
Château
Labégorce
Château
Lachesnaye
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