Our wine specialist Isabella Cameron shares her favourite whites – delicious, multi-dimension wines that stand up to every element of the festive feast

All too often, white wine can be relegated to “just with the starter” on Christmas Day – second fiddle to grander reds that get to take centre-stage alongside the turkey. This is something you feel especially acutely if, like me, you prefer to eat fish rather than meat for your main course.

Here, then, are five utterly gorgeous white wines that I recommend opening over the Christmas period, ranging from classic old-world styles to some hidden gems that deserve an audience.

First, the 2018 Grüner Veltliner, Federspiel, Ried Kreutles, by Emmerich Knoll is crisp, concentrated and has a wonderful peppery spice on the finish. It has just enough weight (Federspiel, the middle level, meaning the grapes are picked slightly later, giving alcohol between 11.5% and 12.5%) so it can stand up to the array of different flavours on the table.

Moving to something a little more classic for traditional Christmas fare, but slightly more understated in terms of price if comparing to the wines of Chassagne, Puligny and Meursault, is Caroline Lestimé's 2016 Hautes-Côtes de Beaune, Sous Eguisons, Caroline Lestimé by Domaine Jean- Noël Gagnard. I find this Chardonnay never fails to impress, lively, and a touch steely from a slightly more classic style of vintage.

Then if the conversation runs dry around the table, I suggest opening the 2017 Au Bon Climat, Hildegard from Santa Maria Valley, as it never fails to fascinate. It is a unique blend of grapes: Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc and Aligoté which bring an oily texture, a flinty note and a streak of acidity (in that order). Nutty and creamy on the finish - just superb and will certainly get your guests talking.

If I had to pick one bottle to see me right through from starter to cheese, one of my favourite options is Racines Wines, Chardonnay. Made from a blend of sites across Santa Rita Hills, it benefits from a touch more warmth than the French wines, bringing a richness and fleshiness to the wine. An exciting new project from a dynamic trio: Santa Barbara winemaker, Justin Willet, Étienne de Montille of Domaine de Montille in Burgundy and Rodolphe Péters of Pierre Péters in Champagne. Wonderful concentration of stone fruits, citrus pith and white flower aromas with an enticing chalky finish.

Finally, when the cheeseboard arrives, I find that – contrary to popular belief – an oaked white wine proves to be the greatest partner to most cheeses, especially hard cheese such as Comté. The 2016 Allende Blanco from Rioja is made from 95% Viura and 5% Malvasia and spends over a year in French oak. It works wonders. For me it is a perfect balance, sitting in between modern and traditional styles, it has wonderful apricot and peach notes, a touch of white flowers but with cedar undertones from the wood. It’s the perfect note to finish on.