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Behind the scenes in the Loire
Words: Chris Hanssen
Published: 21st October 2024
FIVE-MINUTE READ
Account Manager Chris Hanssen recently joined our Buyers on a trip to his favourite wine region – the Loire. Here, he takes us behind the scenes and delves deeper into the region’s exceptional terroirs and the new generation of winemakers making their mark here
Earlier this year, I was lucky enough to visit the Loire Valley with our Loire Buyers, Adam Bruntlett and Yoan Bernard. I really was set for a once-in-a-lifetime treat.
Part of what makes the Loire so exciting is its groundswell of tiny producers who are entirely focused on making wines of incredible quality – and doing it in the right way. The trendiest of wine words are the norm here: biodynamics and organics. Far from being goals for the future, they are already part of the fabric. Seeing producers assign a third of their property for bat habitat, one realises we are a world away from the bright lights of the Cote d’Or or the Médoc.
The new wave of winemakers is supported by old hands who have, quietly, been making incredible wine for years. Seeing young firebrands like Théo Blet going to experienced winemakers like Arnaud Lambert or Etienne Moly with questions, or even to borrow machinery, is heartwarming. They all believe that “if one succeeds, we all succeed” and they want to push the region forward.
The sins of the past – overproduction for restaurant “plonk” and stripping the land of its individuality – are being corrected. Now, new wave pioneers are reinstating quality to this remarkable place.
Domaine Théo Blet
Visiting Domaine Théo Blet, we had a two-mile, uphill walk at the end of a long day. As we crossed a bridge, a Peugeot 306 screeched to a halt and a tall, young chap (Théo himself) got out. He shouted happily in French at Adam and Yoan before we all clambered into Théo’s Peugeot. It was a snug fit. I was a little unnerved but confident that Adam and Yoan hadn’t lost all sense of reality and just jumped into the first car they could find.
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01: Théo Blet
02: Vines at Domaine Théo Blet
Far from being the stereotypical winemaker you might imagine, you wouldn’t be surprised to see Théo in a catalogue selling cool clothes that I am now too old to wear. He and his partner Steph were marvellous. Steph originally hails from Essex and moved to the Loire for love. Considering she had no French skills before arriving, I was hugely impressed to learn that she now works for a large sparkling wine producer.
The weather was not kind during our week-long visit. An already wet season meant Théo winced with every further drop of rain, knowing they would be spraying in the morning to prevent mildew. It was a very real moment of winemaking at the mercy of nature.
The following morning, we met Théo at his home. It forms part of his family’s farm with over 300 hectares of cereal crops but only 16 hectares of vines. His cave is completely unmodified with a terrifying clamber into, what felt like, the bowels of the earth. His two wines are beautiful with a very clean, balanced and modern style. This is a winemaker to watch. His understanding of and respect for his land is very impressive, and of course, he is organic and biodynamic.
Clos Rougeard
We left Théo’s full of “wine geek” cheer to visit Clos Rougeard which is always a treat. It was quite a different experience from our other visits so far in the trip – it was slick, modern and very polished.
The wines here are evolving. Clos Rougeard is reducing the use of new oak barrels and trying to bring more balance and finesse. While no expense is spared, importantly they do restrict some machines and winery toys. The winemakers must suffer to understand the wine.
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01: In the cave at Clos Rougeard
02: The domaine is experimenting with other vessels besides wood
The new winery at Clos Rougeard opened in 2023. Yeasts and even mushrooms from the old winery were brought here to replicate some of the original magic and authenticity. The wines are picked in sweeps of ripeness and vinified as a parcel. They do three to four sweeps allowing for absolute precision in their winemaking.
This was the first (but not only) time we found some reminders of Bordeaux. Clos Rougeard uses second-fill barrels from the top Cabernet Franc producers of Bordeaux. On the side of the barrels, you see names like Cheval Blanc, Angélus and Figeac. Sometimes only the best will do.
Unsurprisingly, the wines of Clos Rougeard are remarkable and the 2022s showed very well. The whites are poised and delightful. Of the reds, I preferred Les Poyeux. It was significantly more floral and elegant than Le Bourg which is all about power and intensity.
These are wines of finesse and understanding. Maybe a departure from the other winemakers we had seen but no less important. Without Clos Rougeard, there wouldn’t be a prestige name to strive for.
Domaine Belargus
This is a name to remember. It was started by Ivan Massonnat, an independently wealthy wine lover. As he showed us the vineyard, it became clear that he knew every square centimetre of the land. With remarkable passion and care, he is delivering on his promise to make the finest wines of Anjou.
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01: Ivan Massonnat
02: Les Trielles – the perfect spot for a picnic
The “Les Trielles” vineyard is a real jewel in the Belargus crown and the best spot for a picnic. With time, I’m certain it will become a must-see for every wine tourist visiting the area. Reminiscent of the Mosel in Germany, this terrifyingly steep yet compact vineyard is a marvel.
I was blown away by how engaged Ivan is with the whole process. His understanding and care are obvious and perhaps most importantly, the wines are delicious – offering something different, joyful and wonderful.
I can see Domaine Belargus becoming more than “Anjou.” It will be a name that escapes the confines of its appellation.
A final word
The Loire is a wine region in the ascendant. Each winemaker has genuine passion and a deep understanding of their place in the big picture. I have never been somewhere where quality is so embedded in everything they do. When even our long-standing Buyers start bouncing with excitement every time they try another bafflingly good wine, we know this is the beginning of a revolution.
Photography by Account Manager Chris Hanssen