Fine wine and spirits 2025 > Piedmont

 

Piedmont in 2025

Published: 13th December 2024

LONGER READ

 

Once known solely for old-school, austere red wines that could take decades to come around, Piedmont is now one of the most dynamic wine regions in the world, let alone Italy. Comparisons to Burgundy are common, and only tell part of the story. Now is a great time to dive into Barolo and Barbaresco.

 

Key developments in Piedmont

 

Comparisons to Burgundy

There are ways in which Piedmont is like Burgundy, and there are ways in which it is not. Like Burgundy, Piedmont is a historic region of small, family-owned estates cultivating small, disparate plots of land and producing tiny quantities of single-varietal wines. But Piedmont has a lot to offer in its own distinctive, characterful way. The best wines of Burgundy are ever harder to come by, and ever more expensive when you can access them; top-tier Barolo and Barbaresco, by contrast, offer relative value for money.

 

More accessible styles

Piedmont, and particularly Barolo, has long been associated with tannic, austere red wines that require extensive ageing before drinking. Certain producers were legendary for this style. In reality, this hasn’t been the prevailing style in Piedmont for quite some time – yet these old associations haven’t been fully shaken off. Newer generations here have a greater focus on hands-on viticulture, hygiene in the winery and a considered use of oak. Put it all together and the wines of Piedmont are more approachable, accessible and immediately charming than they once were. In the past we would advise our customers not to touch their new Barolos for at least a decade; this is no longer the case. Don’t be afraid of these wines.

 

01: The rolling hills of the Barolo region
02: The hilltop village of Barbaresco and the Tanaro river

 

Focus on terroir

The Barolo winegrowing area has little more than 2,000 hectares of vines. This is not very big (Châteauneuf-du-Pape alone has 3,200 hectares; Pauillac and St Julien combined have about 2,100). And yet, Barolo is broken down into no fewer than 180 smaller sites. Known rather cumbersomely as MGAs (Menzioni Geografiche Aggiuntive), these sites could reasonably enough be compared with Burgundian climats. Some of them are big, spanning the entirety of a commune, such as Castiglione Falletto, La Morra and the relatively undiscovered Monforte d’Alba. Others are little more than a couple of hectares in size. These distinctions are intended to reflect a huge diversity of soil types, elevations and microclimates. The sole grape variety here is Nebbiolo, yet the wine produced can vary widely in style. Lots of collectors are familiar with the basics of Burgundy, for example how the Côte de Nuits differs from the Côte de Beaune; or that two neighbouring villages or vineyards can produce very different expressions of the same grape. Barolo is less explored and less understood – and all the more exciting for it.

 

Piedmont: what to do in 2025

 

Our Piedmont offer

Each April, we offer the latest vintages from our growers in Barolo and Barbaresco. Interestingly, because of the lengthy ageing requirements in these regions, these vintages are typically older than equivalent “new releases” from other regions. You’ll find a selection of enticing Barolo, Barbaresco and other wines in this offer. There is a wide range to explore, though some of the most popular names include Mauro Veglio and Marcarini in Barolo; and Gaja and Roagna in Barbaresco.

 

03: Barolo, del Comune di La Morra by Marcarini
04: Winemaker Allesandro harvesting at Mauro Veglio

 

Explore back vintages

BBX, our fine wine exchange, is the ideal way to secure mature cases of Barolo and Barbaresco, with perfect provenance. Seek out vintages like 2011, 2012 or 2014 if you’re looking for something to uncork and enjoy immediately. The 2011 vintage was considered excellent in Barbaresco, and the wines are showing brilliantly now. Barolo 2012, an earlier drinking vintage than some, is now in a wonderful spot: the wines are mid-weight with refreshing acidity and modest alcohol levels. Look to either Barolo or Barbaresco in 2014 and you won’t go too far wrong. For laying down, Barbaresco 2016 is a prime candidate; Barolo’s 2013s and 2016s have serious ageing potential yet.