Home > Editorial > 2025 > Burgundy in five bites

 

Burgundy in five bites

 

Words: Nick Kemball
Published: 7th January 2024

THREE-MINUTE READ

 

Burgundian food is as idolised among chefs as its wine is by sommeliers, says Nick Kemball from our Events team. As a chef-turned-sommelier, he should know. Here, Nick shares his five favourite foods from Burgundy.

I’ve been to Burgundy once in my life. As a wine student and former chef, I wish I could say I spent that time studiously. In truth, those few days were a blur of indulgence. Plenty of wine and food, but hardly a tasting note in sight. In France, it seems as though most people are always thinking about their next meal. But in the stretch between Dijon and Lyon, the people eat with a particularly aggressive appetite.

Burgundy’s food is idolised by chefs just as much as its wine is by sommeliers. Despite its pedigree, Burgundian cuisine is honest and unpretentious. There’s also a profound sense of cultural identity in these parts – perhaps because Burgundy was a separately kingdom before being incorporated into the Holy Roman Empire in the 11th century. The greatest dishes of Burgundy leave no doubt about their heritage. I’m fairly sure that most of the things I ate there were either à la bourguignonne or à la dijonnaise.

There are too many incredible dishes to mention, but there are some that simply can’t be missed. Let’s take a closer look.

 

This warm, golden choux puff enriched with Gruyère or Comté is the precursor to many an indulgent meal in Burgundy. Typically, a gougère is a two-bite morsel. But occasionally in Burgundy’s bakeries, one is confronted with enormous examples the size of a fist. For a traditional pairing, serve your gougères with a crisp Crémant de Bourgogne from a top producer like Domaine de Montjoie. A Kir, the local apéritif made with Aligoté and crème de cassis, would be equally fitting.

 

 

Has any creature escaped the curiosity of the Burgundian chef? Admittedly, I am a latecomer to the gastropod appreciation club, but really, it only took one bite. Properly prepared escargots are tender and meaty, coated in lashings of garlic butter and parsley. A crisp yet concentrated Chablis Grand Cru, such as the amazing Vaudésir from Jean-Paul & Benoît Droin, would make the perfect foil for this classic entrée.

 

 

Something about this dish evokes the cooking of a bygone era. Proper jambon persillé should almost resemble a slab of terrazzo, with bright pink pieces of ham hock suspended in jellied stock with parsley. I personally enjoy it with a slick of Dijon mustard, which melds beautifully with the high, spicy notes of a rich Côte de Beaune Chardonnay. A Chassagne-Montrachet from Domaine Jean-Noël Gagnard or a Meursault from Benjamin Leroux would be just the thing.

 

 

The history of this soft, rust-coloured cheese is extraordinary. In the 16th century, Cistercian monks are alleged to have tried many ways to find suitable food for Fridays, when meat was forbidden. Reportedly, they even tried (and failed) to classify otters as fish to make them permissible for the dinner table. Eventually, they found a better solution: washing cheeses in the local grape brandy, Marc de Bourgogne. Doing this led to the development of a sticky orange rind and imparted a rich, meaty flavour, which some say resembles liver and onions. Clearly, even the most devout Burgundians found ways to satisfy their indulgences. Red Burgundy is the classic pairing; a lighter example like a Marsannay from Jean Fournier would make a lovely contrast.

 

 

Is this the Frenchest of French dishes? The umami-rich combination of braised beef, red wine, mushrooms and slow-cooked onions never fails to disappoint. There is something that feels Gallic in every bite. Some might argue it was American chef Julia Child who helped catapult boeuf bourguignon to fame. Though since she once declared “I would happily die with a bottle of white Burgundy in my mouth”, she has honorary Burgundian status in my book. Boeuf bourguignon pairs perfectly with the freshness and perfume of a fine Pinot Noir, perhaps a Morey-St Denis from Dujac or a Volnay from Domaine de Montille.