The original Michel Mallard who began domaine-bottling is the grandfather of the current Michel, who both advises his father Patrick here at the family domaine, and manages Domaine d’Eugénie in Vosne-Romanée. Patrick Mallard is a man with clear views – moderate yields, machine harvesting, more or less 100 per cent new oak.

Michel (junior) is bringing a little more subtlety into play, rowing back on the new oak, trying some experiments in the cellar, refining the vineyard work and perhaps rethinking the machine-harvesting policy. The Cortons and the premier cru Ladoix Les Joyeuses are the best wines here.

Jasper Morris MW, Burgundy Wine Director and author of the award-winning Inside Burgundy comprehensive handbook.