Son of Charles and nephew of François, Rémi Jobard has been making a range of impressive Meursaults since his first vinification in 1992, working alongside his father until the latter’s retirement in 1996. he is looking for aromatic purity and certainly delivers it. However he is not one of those who has thrown the baby out with the bathwater while searching for the elegant side of chardonnay. A key part of his technique is the pressing: he presses the grapes overnight, reaching the full two bars in carefully graded steps. Afterwards, the wines are vinified and matured for 12 months in barrel followed by six months in tank. Only about 20% new wood is used and Rémi is perhaps unique in Burgundy in favouring an Austrian cooper, Stockinger, using wood from Yppstal which is about 50km away from Vienna. There are also some tall, narrow wooden foudres from Stockinger in service. From what I tasted of the 2008s in barrel, Stockinger’s casks contributed to the elegance and certainly persistence of the wines. The attractive reds are destalked before vinification and subsequently matured in 30% new wood. The Champs Fulliot is the finer of the two Monthélies while the Volnay Santenots is on the light side but very pure and unexpectedly persistent. Jasper Morris MW, Burgundy Wine Director and author of the award-winning Inside Burgundy comprehensive handbook.