Telmo Rodriguez is one of the greatest of Spanish winemakers. In a fashion not dissimilar to Alavaro Palacios, Telmo travelled and learnt for many years before returning home to Rioja, where he has improved yet further the quality of a wine that was already outstanding. In addition he supervises négociant projects throughout Spain. One of his most acclaimed projects is in Ribera del Duero. The charismatic Telmo has something of the prodigal about him, having now returned to his Riojan homestead to energise the great house of Remelluri. One should not overlook, however, his other properties, which explore some of the lesser known areas of Spain and in each case seek to make superlative and characterful wines. Ribera del Duero is, of course, far from a lesser-known area, so it is to Telmo’s great credit, but to no–one’s particular surprise, that the wines he makes at Matallana are amongst the very best here too.