Champagne Laherte is at the cutting edge of artisan, grower Champagne production. It is based in Chavot, just to the south of Epernay, in a sector known as the Coteaux Sud d’Epernay, but it has holdings in 75 different parcels, covering 10 different villages mainly in the southern sectors or to the west in the Vallée de la Marne. Firmly environmental of temperament (farming organically, following biodynamic principles), the ‘brothers’ (Laurence, Auréline, Christian and Thierry) are pleasingly pragmatic when they enter the winery, although they favour wood for the first fermentation (70% of the wines are treated to oak) and usually, but not always, eschew the malolactic fermentation. Fermentation in oak barrels imparts the champagnes a complexity, softness and length which is unparalleled. Their Champagnes are of little or no dosage (sugar addition), to allow the wines to show the purest expression of their terroir. Their range of Champagnes is of extraordinary quality across the board. Their Brut Nature contains 50% of barrel-aged reserve wines and has had its malolactic fermentation partially supressed. It has been aged for just over four years after a first fermentation in foudre. The artist formerly known as the Brut Tradition (now imaginatively called Ultradition, with pleasing elision and the implication that the sugar is less than 6 g/l, which is indeed the case) is typically a blend of 60% Pinot Meunier, 30% Chardonnay and 10% Pinot Noir. It contains 40% of reserve wines.