About this WINE
He has 57 hectares of vineyards, superbly sited high up on slopes around the wine town of Langenlois. His best site is the Heiligenstein vineyard where the rocky granite/slate soils produce Rieslings of astonishing mineral intensity, which age beautifully.
Kamptals vineyards in Lower Austria lie around the river Kamp, running north-east from the Wachau, but the region is dominated by the dramatic hill of Heiligenstein, around which the regions finest vineyards are to be found.
Without the moderation of the Danube, this is a hotter, drier region. Riesling and Grüner Veltliner are still important, although other varieties, including red, make an appearance. The wines are fleshier but more accessible than those of the Wachau, but also manage to accentuate the spicy notes to be found in these varieties.
Willi Bründlmayer was one of the first to make a name internationally, but his friend Michael Moosbrugger at Schloss Gobelsburg makes arguably the most complex wines of the region. Weingut Hiedler offers fine value for money.
Pinot Noir is probably the most frustrating, and at times infuriating, wine grape in the world. However when it is successful, it can produce some of the most sublime wines known to man. This thin-skinned grape which grows in small, tight bunches performs well on well-drained, deepish limestone based subsoils as are found on Burgundy's Côte d'Or.
Pinot Noir is more susceptible than other varieties to over cropping - concentration and varietal character disappear rapidly if yields are excessive and yields as little as 25hl/ha are the norm for some climats of the Côte d`Or.
Because of the thinness of the skins, Pinot Noir wines are lighter in colour, body and tannins. However the best wines have grip, complexity and an intensity of fruit seldom found in wine from other grapes. Young Pinot Noir can smell almost sweet, redolent with freshly crushed raspberries, cherries and redcurrants. When mature, the best wines develop a sensuous, silky mouth feel with the fruit flavours deepening and gamey "sous-bois" nuances emerging.
The best examples are still found in Burgundy, although Pinot Noir`s key role in Champagne should not be forgotten. It is grown throughout the world with notable success in the Carneros and Russian River Valley districts of California, and the Martinborough and Central Otago regions of New Zealand.
Stephan Reinhardt - 28/12/2018
David Schildknecht - Vinous, June 2016