About this SPIRIT
Knockdhu Distillery, Highland
John Morrison bought the Knock estate in 1892 from the Duke of Fife .The discovery shortly afterwards of several springs of pure, clear and highly palatable water on the southern slopes of Knock Hill impressed him so much, that one month later, he laid out the plans to build a distillery and Knockdhu was born.
The location, close to the Great North of Scotland railway line and just a few miles from the peat and barley-rich region of Moray, could not have been more suited to such a venture. The railway station on the Great North of Scotland line run between Aberdeen and Elgin. This railway does not exist anymore. Foundations were laid the following year and the distillery, built using eye-catching local grey granite, began production of its first cask in October 1894.
Despite the closure of the railway branch line in the late 1960s, production of whisky was sustained until 1982 when Knockdhu became one of a dozen distilleries owned by Scottish Malt Distillers to be closed in the face of declining demand for whisky worldwide.
In 1988 Inver House acquired the distillery and in 2000 the malt was re-branded as An Cnoc, to save any confusion with the similarly named Knockando, which is owned by Diageo.
Blends are however, still a very important part of the day to day business of the distillery with a number of whiskies still benefiting from Knockdhu’s input.
Maybe because it is the largest geographical area, the Highlands is also the hardest Whisky region to pin down stylistically. For this reason it is easiest not to consider the Highlands as one large are, but as 4 smaller and much more distinct ones.
North-Highland malts tend to be light bodied, delicate whiskies with complex aromas and a dryish finish sometimes spicy, sometimes with a trace of salt. Northern Highland distilleries are almost all coastal. The most northerly is Old Pulteney, situated about as far north as you can go in Wick, which produces a delicious, fragrant, dry whisky.
Working south along the route of the A9, next comes Clynelish at Brora (built in 1969, beside an earlier distillery who’s whiskies are known as Brora) - a sophisticated and complex whisky older expressions are very highly regarded and the malt deserves to be better known. Perhaps the reason that it is rarely seen as a distillery bottling is that it’s malt is a key component of Johnnie Walker.
The best known of all the Northern Highland malts is Glenmorangie. Glenmorangie, is made at Tain on the Cromarty Firth, and is the most popular malt in Scotland. Over the last decade Glenmorangie pioneered the now often copied process of wood finishing. Althoght this process is not universally popular; it transformed the company’s commercial success.
The Eastern Highlands produce a number of whiskies that can be confused with those of Speyside. In the north of the region close to the southern border of Speyside, whiskies which are smooth, sometimes with a little smoke, malty-sweet, such as Macduff, Ardmore, Glen Garioch and Knockdhu are made.
Further south is Fettercairn, and Glencadam, at Brechin, which produces an unusual creamy, fruity malt. The area between the Moray and the Tay has two distilleries of note; Royal Lochnagar and Glendronach. The first is a wonderfully smooth, rich whisky made in the shadow of the mountain of the same name in a distillery established in 1825 The second is also luscious and often sherried.
In the Western Highlands there only two distilleries on the mainland those of Oban and Ben Nevis. Oban is a perfect, sheltered harbour makes it the principal seaport for the Isles and the capital of the West Highlands. Its whisky has a misty, briny character, with a background of heather and peat.
The Oban whisky stills used are among the smallest in Scotland; the cramped nature of the site is attested to by the odd position of the worm tubs, fed by unusually short lyne arms, and nestled in the ‘vee’ between the roofs of the still house and an adjoining building.
The whiskies of the Central Highlands are a mixed bag. Generally they are lighter-bodied and sweeter that their cousins to the east, but not as sweet as Speysides.
The Central Highland single malts used to be known as 'Perthshire Whiskies'. Most are found along the valleys of the Tay and its tributaries. The furthest north is Dalwhinnie, which is almost in Speyside indeed; it is at the very head of the river, over sixty miles from Grantown-on-Spey.
Blair Athol and Edradour whisky distilleries are both near Pitlochrie. The former was founded in the 1790s and was substantially rebuilt in 1949 Edradour is the smallest distillery in Scotland - a happy survivor of the days of 'farm distilleries' - yet produces a clean, fresh, attractive and justly popular whisky.
South again is Aberfeldy distillery, on the edge of the pretty town of the same name. Glenturret, at Crieff is one of the claimants to being the oldest distillery, although it was dismantled in the 1920s and is much changed.
Lifted yet mature. Aromatic: honeysuckle, chamomile tea, apple blossom, sandalwood. Lightly musky in time candied fruits and BBQ pineapple. More floral with water. Elegance personified.
A surprisingly slow start. Thick. Golden syrup/mead, then saffron. Sweet citrus, then moving into lily.
Superb balance and aromatic intensity. Exemplary old whisky.
Dave Broom - Whisky Magazine Issue 105 Nose
Deep, intensely fruity. Peaches infused in a spicy syrup. With a lovely floral note in the back. Freesia. Oak is perfectly integrated. Dried apricots. Apple skin. Stem ginger.
Silky, smooth and sweet. The same fruity profile with marshmallows and pralines. Becomes slightly fizzy at mid palate. Ginger and white pepper.
Lingering, soothing on white chocolate and soft spices.
A real beauty!
Martine Nouet - Whisky Magazine Issue 105