Blandy's, Bual, 30-Year-Old, Madeira, Portugal (20%)
Critics reviews
This is made from a selection of the best Bual vintages of the last five decades. The youngest component is 15 years old, and the oldest is 47 years old.
It smells like warm fudge and Christmas. It tastes like Genoa cake and toffee pie. Dust and spice, bitter lemons and bitter orange, and a flavour that reminds me a little bit of amaro, a little bit of coffee syrup. Deep savouriness; bitterness built into it like a spine; purple notes that remind me of jacaranda trees in blossom in warm evening sunlight. And then, just at the end, buttered toast. Beautiful. And surprisingly playful!
Tamlyn Currin, JancisRobinson.com (December 2022)
The maiden NV Bual 30-Year-Old is a blend of seven different wines, the youngest 15- and the oldest 49 years old. Chris Blandy told me that their aim is to create a Madeira in a style as close to a 30-Year-Old blend as possible. There is something "gentle" about the bouquet, well defined as one now expects from Blandy's: touches of hazelnut, dried quince and fresh fig all suffused with a judicious level of volatility to give it a gentle kick. Conversely, the palate is feisty and lively at the entry, with a twist of bitter lemon interwoven into the dried honey, fig, and clove notes. As it unfolds in the mouth, I notice how it becomes spicier, with a sprinkle of white pepper and a cheeky pinch of curry powder on the finish. What a gorgeous Bual! This comes highly recommended.
Drink 2016 - 2040
Neil Martin, Wine Advocate (March 2016)
About this WINE
Madeira Wine Company
The Madeira Wine Company (MWC) is owned and managed by the Blandy family of Madeira, an institution which in 2011 celebrated its bicentenary.
Within the MWC brands, Blandy’s, Rutherford & Miles, Cossart & Gordon and Leacock`s have all been synonymous with quality Madeira wine.
The Blandys are unique in being the only family of all the original founders of the Madeira wine trade to still own and manage their own wine company and the family has played a leading role in the development of Madeira wine throughout its long history.
In 2000 the MWC led the way with the introduction of a high quality but affordable Madeira of a single year (known as "Colheita" in Portuguese); "Blandy's Malmsey 1994 Harvest". This was the first dated Madeira ever launched other than the very expensive and rare Vintage Madeiras. Since then many other Madeira producers have again followed the MWC lead by introducing younger dated wines, thus creating an important new category of premium Madeira.
In July 2002, Blandy’s MWC again launched a completely new style of Madeira with a radical presentation, "Blandy's Alvada". The wine is different to anything that has been produced before as it combines 2 noble grape varieties, Malmsey and Bual to arrive at a superbly balanced wine that combines the rich flavours of the Malmsey with the more complex and drier structure of the Bual.
The company is again leading the way in the re-establishment of Madeira as one of the world's great wines.
Madeira
The Region of Madeira includes the islands of Madeira and Porto Santo both with different characteristics; the former forested and temperate, the latter is hot, dry and bare. The soil is by nature, volcanic,and the vineyards are in terraced steps named poios which extend down to the sea's edge.
Shakespeare's immortal characters in the play Henry IV - Falstaff - was accused of exchanging his soul for a leg of chicken and a goblet of Madeira. It is also said that, in 1478, an event occurred concerning George, Duke of Clarence, brother of Edward IV, King of England. Condemned to death by High Court, he was allowed to choose how he should die, and he chose to drown himself in a large vessel of the Malvasia wine; Madeira was drunk to toast the American Declaration of Independence, is the `desert island` choice of several wine personalities. Recent increased sales reflect a renewed interest in the unique wine style.
The discovery of Madeira wine happened when the unsold wine aboard in vessels saling from Madeira to the West, was shipped back to Funchal to be returned to its owners. It was then noticed that quality improved, and as such it was sold as Round Trip Wine and it was worth its weight in gold. This voyage of many days of warm weather gave in effect a gentle ageing to the wine .
Madeira nowdays is fortified with Portugese grape brandy to 20% alcohol, usually leaving some residual sugar in the wine. Shortly after fermentation is complete the wine is heated to approximately 115 degrees and held for six months. It is then alternately heated and cooled for six-month intervals while slowly maturing in oak barrels. Barrels are generally large and old so as to not impart any oak flavor or tannin and to promote gradual oxidation. Made from red and white grapes, the wines are light to dark brown in color due to cask oxidation.
There are four traditional styles corresponding to different grape varieties: dry Sercial, medium dry Verdelho, medium sweet Boal (or Bual) and sweet Malmsey (or Malvasia). Madeira is a versatile dessert wines because its natural high acidity enables it to stand up to all desserts without being overwhelmed. It is ideal for occasional consumption because it is fully oxidized during winemaking and will not deteriorate after opening.
Berrys' own label from the island's principal producer provides an introduction to the main style. Under the Blandy and Cossart & Gordon labels, the Madeira Wine Company offers the opportunity to experience the intensity and depth of flavours in wines.
Vihnos Barbeitos, one of the most forward-thinking companies in the island, and the renown experts Michael and Bartholomew Broadbent, are represented with some superb examples of Madeiras with age statements.
Other Varieties
There are over 200 different grape varieties used in modern wine making (from a total of over 1000). Most lesser known blends and varieties are traditional to specific parts of the world.
When is a wine ready to drink?
We provide drinking windows for all our wines. Alongside the drinking windows there is a bottle icon and a maturity stage. Bear in mind that the best time to drink a wine does also depend on your taste.
Not ready
These wines are very young. Whilst they're likely to have lots of intense flavours, their acidity or tannins may make them feel austere. Although it isn't "wrong" to drink these wines now, you are likely to miss out on a lot of complexity by not waiting for them to mature.
Ready - youthful
These wines are likely to have plenty of fruit flavours still and, for red wines, the tannins may well be quite noticeable. For those who prefer younger, fruitier wines, or if serving alongside a robust meal, these will be very enjoyable. If you choose to hold onto these wines, the fruit flavours will evolve into more savoury complexity.
Ready - at best
These wines are likely to have a beautiful balance of fruit, spice and savoury flavours. The acidity and tannins will have softened somewhat, and the wines will show plenty of complexity. For many, this is seen as the ideal time to drink and enjoy these wines. If you choose to hold onto these wines, they will become more savoury but not necessarily more complex.
Ready - mature
These wines are likely to have plenty of complexity, but the fruit flavours will have been almost completely replaced by savoury and spice notes. These wines may have a beautiful texture at this stage of maturity. There is lots to enjoy when drinking wines at this stage. Most of these wines will hold in this window for a few years, though at the very end of this drinking window, wines start to lose complexity and decline.
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Description
This is made from a selection of the best Bual vintages of the last five decades. The youngest component is 15 years old, and the oldest is 47 years old.
It smells like warm fudge and Christmas. It tastes like Genoa cake and toffee pie. Dust and spice, bitter lemons and bitter orange, and a flavour that reminds me a little bit of amaro, a little bit of coffee syrup. Deep savouriness; bitterness built into it like a spine; purple notes that remind me of jacaranda trees in blossom in warm evening sunlight. And then, just at the end, buttered toast. Beautiful. And surprisingly playful!
Tamlyn Currin, JancisRobinson.com (December 2022)
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