2011 Condrieu, La Bonnette, Domaine René Rostaing
Critics reviews
Julia Harding MW, jancisrobinson.com – 6 Feb 2013
About this WINE
Viognier
A white grape variety originating in the Northern Rhône and which in the last ten years has been increasingly planted in the Southern Rhône and the Languedoc.
It is a poor-yielding grape that is notoriously fickle to grow, being susceptible to a whole gamut of pests and diseases. Crucially it must be picked at optimum ripeness - if harvested too early and under-ripe the resulting wine can be thin, dilute and unbalanced, while if picked too late then the wine will lack the grape's distinctive peach and honeysuckle aroma. It is most successfully grown in the tiny appellations of Château-Grillet and Condrieu where it thrives on the distinctive arzelle granite-rich soils. It is also grown in Côte Rôtie where it lends aromatic richness to the wines when blended with Syrah.
Viognier has been on the charge in the Southern Rhône and the Languedoc throughout the 1990s and is now a key component of many white Côtes du Rhône. In Languedoc and Rousillon it is increasingly being bottled unblended and with notable success with richly fragrant wines redolent of overripe apricots and peaches and selling at a fraction of the price of their Northern Rhône cousins.
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Description
The Bonnette sees neither wood nor malolactic fermentation. There is 2 g/l of residual sugar in the 2011, less than in some years, which ensures that a welcome freshness will always escort the more flamboyant descriptors of apricots, peaches and ginger.
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer
The urbane René Rostaing has an aphoristic turn of phrase; he quotes Pliny the Younger for example, when reminding us that ‘le vin du Viennois a l’odour de violette’. He then throws in the enigmatic phrase, ‘le Viognier à Côte Rôtie est plus légende que réalité’: a subject for debate at the next Northern Rhône symposium perhaps? He can be somewhat unpredictable, eschewing new wood, yet using industrial-looking roto-fermentors. One thing is for sure; he is not too keen on the apparently facile division of Côte-Rôtie into mere Brune and Blonde; it is far more complex than that.
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