White, Drink now

2010 Sylvaner, Réserve Millésime, Domaine Rolly-Gassmann

2010 Sylvaner, Réserve Millésime, Domaine Rolly-Gassmann

White | Drink now | Rolly Gassmann | Code:  17326 | 2010 | France > Alsace > AOC Alsace > Sylvaner AOC Alsace | Silvaner/Sylvaner | Light-Medium Bodied, Medium Dry | 13.0 % alcohol

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The Producer

Rolly Gassmann

Rolly Gassmann

Located in Alsace’s Haut-Rhin village of Rorschwihr, near Ribeauvillé, lies the family domaine of Rolly-Gassmann, whose roots date back to 1661. The 51 hectare estate (40ha in Rorschwihr, 10ha in Bergheim) is owned and  run by Marie-Therese (pictured right), Louis & their son Pierre Gassmann, along with a team of 17 workers.

They work to the principles of biodynamic viticulture yet curiously also apply weed killers. They produce on average 300,000 bottles per annum and they are notable for having more than four years’ stock (1 million bottles) in stock at any one time, which would account for the regular visits by French customers; they only export 20% of their annual production.

The 250ha commune of Rorschwihr, first noted for its wine in 742AD, lies on one of Alsace’s many faultlines (ala Burgundy), giving rise to a complex tapestry of 21 different soil types, particularly limestone, sandstone, granite and silt. So complex in fact that when the authorities sought to lump together vineyards to form large plots as part of the new Grand Cru system (1970s/80s), the villagers rose up and declared that either there would be 12 Rorschwihr Grand Crus or none at all. Hence today there are no Grand Crus in Rorschwihr.

That said there are some standout Crus/lieux-dits that would surely qualify as Premier Cru sites if ever this classification was tabled. Limestone rich vineyards Silberberg, Kappelweg & Pflaenzerreben are rated for their Rieslings , Rotleibel’s darker brown clay and silt soils are meant for Pinot Gris, while the oolithic white lime stone of Oberer Weingarten & Stegreben are perfect for the Gassmann’s Gewurztraminer.

Vinification takes place in large oak barrels and stainless-steel, giving wines of great elegance, gentleness and drinkability.

The Grape

Silvaner/Sylvaner

Silvaner/Sylvaner

A white grape of uncertain origin that is planted in Alsace and more widely in Germany. In Alsace where it is known as Sylvaner, it is gradually being replaced by Pinot Blanc and Riesling - what is left over usually ends up being blended with other varieties and labelled Edelzwicker or being bottled as AC Alsace.

In Germany it represents around 10% of the total plantings and for years and  it had a reputation for high acidity, neutral wines, low in aroma and fruit. However today much better wines are being produced through selection of better sites, lower yields, and crucially through harvesting at optimum ripeness - if unripe Sylvaner makes an exceedingly green and mean wine. The very best examples are from Franken.

The Region

Sylvaner AOC Alsace

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