1962 Cossart Gordon, Bual, Madeira, Portugal
Critics reviews
Tamlyn Currin, jancisrobinson.com (Dec 2020)
Drink 2016 - 2050
Neal Martin, Wine Advocate (Mar 2016)
About this WINE
Cossart Gordon
Cossart Gordon & Co . was established in 1745 and it is the oldest company in the Madeira wine trade. The founders originated from Scotland; Francis Newton, joined by his younger brother Thomas, Thomas Gordon of Balmaghie and Thomas Murdoch.
In 1808, the Scottish dominance over the firm was broken with the arrival of William Cossart, an Irishman descended from the distinguished Hugnenot family of France. At the end of the 19th century the firm had expanded by including Port, Sherry, Marsala and Malaga to their wine portfolio. These businesses continued until the out break of World War II when the firm decided to concentrate solely on Madeira.
Their current portfolio includes, among others, Malmsey, Verdehlo, Sercial and Bual Madeiras . Their Frasqueira Vintage Madeiras are aged in cask for a minimum of 20 years before being bottled under the supervision of the Madeira Wine Institute. The Frasqeiras receive then an additional two years bottle ageing before release.
Bual and Terrantez
Bual (aka Boal in Portuguese) is a white grape variety and a corresponding style of Madeira, one of the four recognised styles of this fortified wine (the others being the dry Sercial, the medium-dry Verdelho, and sweet Malmsey (or Malvasia).
Bual is an intensively perfumed and medium sweet style of Madeira, thanks to its good acidity that balances the sweetness.
The high acidity in the Bual grape combined with maderization, a process in which the wine is fortified and then slowly cooked in barrel over a period of many years, allows the wine to achieve admirable longevity.
The nose is perfumed, evocative of barley sugar while the palate delivers caramel, molasses and coffee notes rounded out by dried fruits & orange peel flavours.
Terrantez is white grape variety in Madeira, that nowadays is practically extinct, although it might be occasionally found in some very old bottlings. Efforts to revive the plantings of Terrantez are hampered by the very low yields of the grape.
Terrantez Madeira vintages come in two principal styles: The rich and sweet wines, as exemplified by bottling of the Madeira Wine Company. The other style is rather dry, although quite concentrated in flavours. Old vintage examples of Terrantez like the Blandy 1846 demonstrate the high potential of the grape (impressive ability to gain in complexity after long ageing).
Other Varieties
There are over 200 different grape varieties used in modern wine making (from a total of over 1000). Most lesser known blends and varieties are traditional to specific parts of the world.
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Description
Biscotti and dense, dark fruit-cake aromas, top notes of sandalwood and cigar uncurling like tendrils of smoke as the wine very, very slowly starts to shift and open in the glass. Burnt sugar and lemon juice, balsamic raisins and figs and limes. Tobacco. Deep-roasted pecans. Dark chocolate and hazelnuts. And yet it is SO fresh; crackling, snapping with life and piercing purity. A coiled spring. There is, through the centre line, a slender bitter curve that draws the sweetness into its wake. A wine that keeps on and on unfurling, in the glass and across the mouth. Wide spread, filling every corner, little flecks of brilliance flaring up like fireflies. I would have given anything to have sat with with this wine for several hours…
Tamlyn Currin, jancisrobinson.com (Dec 2020)
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