1983 Petrus, Pomerol, Bordeaux
Critics reviews
Tasted blind at Olivier Bernard's "3" dinner at Domaine de Chevalier.
The 1983 Petrus is a vintage I have only encountered a couple of times. This is unquestionably the best I have experienced, blind no less. The bouquet springs from the glass, autumn bonfire scents intertwined with black truffle and leather, more fruit than I remember on the previous bottle. Perhaps the palate just misses a little cohesion? Foursquare but fresh, this is a simple Petrus predestined to lie in the shadow of the previous vintage. Yet this punches above my expectations.
Drink 2023 - 2040
Neal Martin, Vinous.com (August 2023)
Offering up aromas of sweet plums, fruitcake, warm spices, smoke, caramel and cedar, the 1982 Pétrus is medium to full-bodied, sweet and fleshy, built around powdery tannins that assert themselves on the somewhat firm finish. Served blind next to Trotanoy and Lafleur, Pétrus exhibits less sensuality than the former and less concentration and character than the latter, landing in third place. It remains a very attractive wine, but the great Pétrus of the decade of the 1980s is clearly not the 1982 but rather the monumental 1989.
Drink 2002 - 2040
William Kelley, Wine Advocate (December 2022)
Offering up aromas of sweet plums, fruitcake, warm spices, smoke, caramel and cedar, the 1982 Pétrus is medium to full-bodied, sweet and fleshy, built around powdery tannins that assert themselves on the somewhat firm finish. Served blind next to Trotanoy and Lafleur, Pétrus exhibits less sensuality than the former and less concentration and character than the latter, landing in third place. It remains a very attractive wine, but the great Pétrus of the decade of the 1980s is clearly not the 1982 but rather the monumental 1989.
Robert M. Parker, Jr., Wine Advocate (June 2009)
About this WINE
Petrus
Petrus is a wine estate in Pomerol on the Right Bank of Bordeaux. It is among the most celebrated and recognisable wines in the world.
While the estate can trace its history to at least 1837, it flew relatively under the radar until around the 20th century. Madame Loubat, who became the sole owner in 1945, felt that the estate was truly special, and her efforts were instrumental in establishing Petrus on the world stage. She also appointed Jean-Pierre Moueix as the exclusive agent; he and his sons Jean-François and Christian were key in building the estate’s modern reputation. The Moueix family became majority owners here in 1969. In 2018, they were joined by American-Colombian Alejandro Santo Domingo, who purchased a 20% stake.
Petrus is located atop the Pomerol plateau. Most of its vines sit on a so-called “buttonhole” of blue clay soil, known as smectite. This soil’s ability to retain water is a huge benefit in the Pomerol appellation, where drought is a known issue. The vineyard is planted mostly to Merlot.
The estate is run today by winemaker Olivier Berrouet, previously of neighbouring Château Cheval Blanc. Olivier joined in 2008, taking over from his father, Jean-Claude, who had produced 44 vintages of Petrus in his time.
Pomerol
Pomerol is the smallest of Bordeaux's major appellations, with about 150 producers and approximately 740 hectares of vineyards. It is home to many bijou domaines, many of which produce little more than 1,000 cases per annum.
Both the topography and architecture of the region is unremarkable, but the style of the wines is most individual. The finest vineyards are planted on a seam of rich clay which extends across the gently-elevated plateau of Pomerol, which runs from the north-eastern boundary of St Emilion. On the sides of the plateau, the soil becomes sandier and the wines lighter.
There is one satellite region to the immediate north, Lalande-de-Pomerol whose wines are stylistically very similar, if sometimes lacking the finesse of its neighbour. There has never been a classification of Pomerol wines.
Recommended Châteaux : Ch. Pétrus, Vieux Ch. Certan, Le Pin, Ch. L’Eglise-Clinet, Ch. La Conseillante, Ch. L’Evangile, Ch. Lafleur, Trotanoy, Ch. Nenin, Ch. Beauregard, Ch. Feytit-Clinet, Le Gay.
Merlot
The most widely planted grape in Bordeaux and a grape that has been on a relentless expansion drive throughout the world in the last decade. Merlot is adaptable to most soils and is relatively simple to cultivate. It is a vigorous naturally high yielding grape that requires savage pruning - over-cropped Merlot-based wines are dilute and bland. It is also vital to pick at optimum ripeness as Merlot can quickly lose its varietal characteristics if harvested overripe.
In St.Emilion and Pomerol it withstands the moist clay rich soils far better than Cabernet grapes, and at it best produces opulently rich, plummy clarets with succulent fruitcake-like nuances. Le Pin, Pétrus and Clinet are examples of hedonistically rich Merlot wines at their very best. It also plays a key supporting role in filling out the middle palate of the Cabernet-dominated wines of the Médoc and Graves.
Merlot is now grown in virtually all wine growing countries and is particularly successful in California, Chile and Northern Italy.
When is a wine ready to drink?
We provide drinking windows for all our wines. Alongside the drinking windows there is a bottle icon and a maturity stage. Bear in mind that the best time to drink a wine does also depend on your taste.
Not ready
These wines are very young. Whilst they're likely to have lots of intense flavours, their acidity or tannins may make them feel austere. Although it isn't "wrong" to drink these wines now, you are likely to miss out on a lot of complexity by not waiting for them to mature.
Ready - youthful
These wines are likely to have plenty of fruit flavours still and, for red wines, the tannins may well be quite noticeable. For those who prefer younger, fruitier wines, or if serving alongside a robust meal, these will be very enjoyable. If you choose to hold onto these wines, the fruit flavours will evolve into more savoury complexity.
Ready - at best
These wines are likely to have a beautiful balance of fruit, spice and savoury flavours. The acidity and tannins will have softened somewhat, and the wines will show plenty of complexity. For many, this is seen as the ideal time to drink and enjoy these wines. If you choose to hold onto these wines, they will become more savoury but not necessarily more complex.
Ready - mature
These wines are likely to have plenty of complexity, but the fruit flavours will have been almost completely replaced by savoury and spice notes. These wines may have a beautiful texture at this stage of maturity. There is lots to enjoy when drinking wines at this stage. Most of these wines will hold in this window for a few years, though at the very end of this drinking window, wines start to lose complexity and decline.
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Description
Tasted blind at Olivier Bernard's "3" dinner at Domaine de Chevalier.
The 1983 Petrus is a vintage I have only encountered a couple of times. This is unquestionably the best I have experienced, blind no less. The bouquet springs from the glass, autumn bonfire scents intertwined with black truffle and leather, more fruit than I remember on the previous bottle. Perhaps the palate just misses a little cohesion? Foursquare but fresh, this is a simple Petrus predestined to lie in the shadow of the previous vintage. Yet this punches above my expectations.
Drink 2023 - 2040
Neal Martin, Vinous.com (August 2023)
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