1997 Champagne Philipponnat, Clos des Goisses, L.V., Brut
Critics reviews
Drink 2023 to 2034
Jane Anson, Inside Bordeaux (August 2022)
About this WINE
Champagne Philipponnat
Champagne Philipponnat is based in Mareuil sur Aÿ Roman in along the banks of the River Marne. Philipponnat makes a wide range of wines but the house’s fame rests squarely on the monumental Clos des Goisses, a Pinot-dominated Champagne that emerges from a 5.5 hectare vineyard in Mareuil-sur-Ay.
Brut Champagne
Brut denotes a dry style of Champagne (less than 15 grams per litre). Most Champagne is non-vintage, produced from a blend from different years. The non-vintage blend is always based predominately on wines made from the current harvest, enriched with aged wines (their proportion and age varies by brand) from earlier harvests, which impart an additional level of complexity to the end wine. Champagnes from a single vintage are labelled with the year reference and with the description Millésimé.
Non-vintage Champagnes can improve with short-term ageing (typically two to three years), while vintages can develop over much longer periods (five to 30 years). The most exquisite and often top-priced expression of a house’s style is referred to as Prestige Cuvée. Famous examples include Louis Roederer's Cristal, Moët & Chandon's Dom Pérignon, and Pol Roger's Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill.
Recommended Producers : Krug, Billecart Salmon, Pol Roger, Bollinger, Salon, Gosset, Pierre Péters, Ruinart
Chardonnay
Chardonnay is often seen as the king of white wine grapes and one of the most widely planted in the world It is suited to a wide variety of soils, though it excels in soils with a high limestone content as found in Champagne, Chablis, and the Côte D`Or.
Burgundy is Chardonnay's spiritual home and the best White Burgundies are dry, rich, honeyed wines with marvellous poise, elegance and balance. They are unquestionably the finest dry white wines in the world. Chardonnay plays a crucial role in the Champagne blend, providing structure and finesse, and is the sole grape in Blanc de Blancs.
It is quantitatively important in California and Australia, is widely planted in Chile and South Africa, and is the second most widely planted grape in New Zealand. In warm climates Chardonnay has a tendency to develop very high sugar levels during the final stages of ripening and this can occur at the expense of acidity. Late picking is a common problem and can result in blowsy and flabby wines that lack structure and definition.
Recently in the New World, we have seen a move towards more elegant, better- balanced and less oak-driven Chardonnays, and this is to be welcomed.
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Description
25 years after vintage, disgorged at the same time as the (not dissimilar in spirit) 2013, and at this point you can expect a slight softening in the pressure of the mousse, and a whole heap of extra truffle, creme patisserie, brioche and wax flavours. After so long on the lees, you might also get a touch of marmite reduction at first, so I would give it a short carafe before drinking - basically just decant for 5 minutes and then straight out into your glass. As it opens, you get waves of aromatic herbs, angelica-liqourice, touch of honeysuckle, frangipane, soot, cold ash, grilled almond, even rancio oxidative notes on the finish. An October harvest which is extremely late for Champagne, this has decades ahead of it. Today's winemaker Thierry Garnier was already there, but chef de cave was Norbert Thiebert.
Drink 2023 to 2034
Jane Anson, Inside Bordeaux (August 2022)
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