1999 Domaine de l'A, Côtes de Castillon, Bordeaux

Domaine de l'A

World-renowned consultant Stèphane Derenoncourt and his wife, Christine, purchased 2.5 hectares in the commune of Sainte-Colombe in the Côtes de Castillon in 1999. Today, they have 11 hectares divided among various parcels, the majority on a south-facing slope with tuffeau limestone soil (to which Stephane attributes his wine’s floral aroma). The average age of the Merlot (70%) and Cabernet Franc (30%) vines is 55 years old. The domaine is organic but – for the time being – uncertified. Yields are tiny: 28 hl/ha in a generous vintage. Owing to its scale, undulating vineyards and the ethereal character of its wines, the domaine has a distinctly Burgundian vibe.

Côtes de Castillon

To the east of the St Émilion wine appellation, and on the north bank of the Dordogne, Côtes de Castillon has been the site of considerable interest and investment since the early 2000s. Wine production is significant, yielding over 1.5 million cases per annum and quality is quite variable, ranging from the everyday from the sandy and light gravel soils to imposing, aspirational wines benefiting from considerable investment, and made from the clay and limestone vineyards on higher slopes.

The style of these latter wines is akin to good St Émilion, and the wines use predominantly Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. In common with other regions recognised to produce interesting and good-value wines, several well-known St Émilion proprietors have invested in the appellation over the past decade, among them Gérard Perse of Ch. Pavie, Stephan Von Neipperg of Canon-la-Gaffelière, and consultant Stéphane Derénoncourt.

Merlot

The most widely planted grape in Bordeaux and a grape that has been on a relentless expansion drive throughout the world in the last decade. Merlot is adaptable to most soils and is relatively simple to cultivate. It is a vigorous naturally high yielding grape that requires savage pruning - over-cropped Merlot-based wines are dilute and bland. It is also vital to pick at optimum ripeness as Merlot can quickly lose its varietal characteristics if harvested overripe.

In St.Emilion and Pomerol it withstands the moist clay rich soils far better than Cabernet grapes, and at it best produces opulently rich, plummy clarets with succulent fruitcake-like nuances. Le Pin, Pétrus and Clinet are examples of hedonistically rich Merlot wines at their very best. It also plays a key supporting role in filling out the middle palate of the Cabernet-dominated wines of the Médoc and Graves.

Merlot is now grown in virtually all wine growing countries and is particularly successful in California, Chile and Northern Italy.