The 2002 Breg (Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio, Riesling Italico) is superbly nuanced in its aromas and flavours. Sweet, perfumed spices, apricots and candied orange peel all appear, supported by finessed tannins and a superb sense of overall balance. This exquisite wine should drink well for another five to seven years, if not longer.
Josko Gravner is a man of few words. He comes across as relatively reserved, yet I sense a certain spirituality and timelessness about him, a longing for a time in the past when life was simpler and more rooted in the land. Gravner continues to cast a significant presence in the region, continually pushing the envelope with his wines and significantly influencing the younger generation of producers.
In the 1980s, his adoption of stainless steel and barriques was widely emulated, as was his move to long maceration times on the skins for his whites in the late 1990s. In 2001, Gravner released his first wines fermented in amphora. These wines result from the many trips Gravner made to the Caucasus mountains in the republic of Georgia, which he first visited in his quest to learn more about the ancient origins of wine.
Ready to drink
Antonio Galloni, Wine Advocate (October 2007)
About this WINE
Friuli-Venezia-Giulia, a north-eastern province bordering Slovenia, with Trieste as its capital, is responsible for a mere 2% of Italys production but is significant qualitatively with over 50% of its wines credited as DOC. It has become famous over the last 20 years for relaunching the fortunes of Italian white wine via the Pinot Grigio grape.
Friuli enjoys an illustrious history stretching back to the Venetic and Celtic tribes of the 6th century BC who cultivated the vine here before fleeing the Hun to found Venice. However, the potential for making quality wines among the Friulian hills was first properly recognised by the Romans, from the area now better-known as Colli Orientali del Friuli and Collio. Thereafter Friuli was occupied by all manner of race and creed: Austrians, Slavs and Germans, each contributing grape varieties to the rich viticultural tapestry. Colli Orientali del Friuli, for example, now boasts 17 different varieties across its 2,000ha.
Until the 1980s the region was in the grip of the cooperatives, released by a new generation armed with stainless-steel tanks and ambitious ideas bent on transforming Italys white wine scene. They certainly succeeded not least in bringing Pinot Grigio to a world-wide audience - and their innovative efforts continue today.
Geographically the region is perfectly situated, with cooling air currents flowing between the Adriatic Sea and the Alpine foothills, while the nearby Carnic and Julian Alps that separate the region from Slovenia reveal an array of fine vineyard sites. The ancient alluvial river floodplains at the heart of the region are home to the DOCs of Friuli-Grave, Isonzo and Friuli-Aquileia. Famed for Pinot Grigio, they are also increasingly a source of some good reds.
Further north, the hillside viticulture and steeply sloping, low-yielding ponca calcareous marl soils of the Colli Orientali del Friuli and Collio DOCs is more challenging and rewarding. This area produces fuller structured, top quality whites from Sauvignon Blanc, Ribolla Gialla, Tocai Friulano and Malvasia Istriana and some impressive reds from Refosco, Pignolo and Merlot.
Recommended Producers: Lis Neris, Miani, Davino Meroi and Canus
There are over 200 different grape varieties used in modern wine making (from a total of over 1000). Most lesser known blends and varieties are traditional to specific parts of the world.