2005 Meursault, Le Tesson, Jean-Philippe Fichet, Burgundy

2005 Meursault, Le Tesson, Jean-Philippe Fichet, Burgundy

Product: 20058010423
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2005 Meursault, Le Tesson, Jean-Philippe Fichet, Burgundy

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Description

It is still very youthful in colour, with even a pale green tint. The nose is classically reductive. Full of beans. From a magnum, and they have all been good (I have heard that there have been some incidences of oxidation in the bottle). It is very lean on the palate, unlike the classical Meursaults of old, but more breadth emerges as it warms up. The toasty oak is well-judged, and the finish is respectably long.

Jasper Morris MW, InsideBurgundy.com (May 2019)

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Critics reviews

Jasper Morris MW91/100

It is still very youthful in colour, with even a pale green tint. The nose is classically reductive. Full of beans. From a magnum, and they have all been good (I have heard that there have been some incidences of oxidation in the bottle). It is very lean on the palate, unlike the classical Meursaults of old, but more breadth emerges as it warms up. The toasty oak is well-judged, and the finish is respectably long.

Jasper Morris MW, InsideBurgundy.com (May 2019)

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Burghound90-92/100

A bit more obvious wood serves as a backdrop to the ripe peach, apricot and spiced pear aromas that marry into more complex and powerful, full-bodied flavours that explode on the vibrant and penetrating finish that goes on and on. This is a big wine, but it doesn't lack elegance or detail. It is a 'wow' wine for its level that has great breadth on the mid-palate yet tightens up to become quite linear in the finale.

Ready to drink now

Allen Meadows, Burghound.com (July 2007)

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Jancis Robinson MW17/20

Low-key nose. Tight, focused, quite steely. It needs lots and lots of time, but there is great tension here. Very, very sleek.

Drink now

Jancis Robinson MW, JancisRobinson.com (August 2007)

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About this WINE

Jean-Philippe Fichet

Jean-Philippe Fichet

Jean-Philippe Fichet made his first vintage in 1981. After a few challenges, he settled into his current – and rather splendid – cellars at Creux du Coche, by the Hôpital de Meursault.

About Jean-Philippe Fichet
Over the years, Jean-Philippe has built up an array of Meursaults, all from lieux-dits. He has no Premiers or Grands Crus in the village, though there’s a small parcel of Premier Cru Referts in Puligny.

In the vineyard
Jean-Philippe is very much a vigneron; it’s the time in the vineyard that counts. He believes that soil health is critical, and for 15 years he’s been making and applying his own compost to his vineyards.

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Meursault

Meursault

There are more top producers in Meursault than in any other commune of the Côte d’Or. Certainly it is the most famous and popular of the great white appellations. Its wines are typically rich and savoury with nutty, honeyed hints and buttery, vanilla spice from the oak.

Even though it is considerably larger than its southerly neighbours Chassagne and Puligny, Meursault contains no Grands Crus. Its three best Premiers Crus, however – Les Perrières, Les Genevrières and Les Charmes – produce some of the region’s greatest whites: they are full, round and powerful, and age very well. Les Perrières in particular can produce wines of Grand Cru quality, a fact that is often reflected in its price. Meursault has also been one of the driving forces of biodynamic viticulture in the region, as pioneered by Lafon and Leflaive.

Many of the vineyards below Premier Cru, known as ‘village’ wines, are also well worth looking at. The growers vinify their different vineyard holdings separately, which rarely happens in Puligny or Chassagne. Such wines can be labelled with the ‘lieu-dit’ vineyard alongside (although in smaller type to) the Meursault name.

Premier Cru Meursault should be enjoyed from five to 15 years of age, although top examples can last even longer. Village wines, meanwhile, are normally at their best from three to 10 years.

Very occasionally, red Meursault is produced with some fine, firm results. The best red Pinot Noir terroir, Les Santenots, is afforded the courtesy title of Volnay Santenots, even though it is actually in Meursault.

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Chardonnay

Chardonnay

Chardonnay is often seen as the king of white wine grapes and one of the most widely planted in the world It is suited to a wide variety of soils, though it excels in soils with a high limestone content as found in Champagne, Chablis, and the Côte D`Or.

Burgundy is Chardonnay's spiritual home and the best White Burgundies are dry, rich, honeyed wines with marvellous poise, elegance and balance. They are unquestionably the finest dry white wines in the world. Chardonnay plays a crucial role in the Champagne blend, providing structure and finesse, and is the sole grape in Blanc de Blancs.

It is quantitatively important in California and Australia, is widely planted in Chile and South Africa, and is the second most widely planted grape in New Zealand. In warm climates Chardonnay has a tendency to develop very high sugar levels during the final stages of ripening and this can occur at the expense of acidity. Late picking is a common problem and can result in blowsy and flabby wines that lack structure and definition.

Recently in the New World, we have seen a move towards more elegant, better- balanced and less oak-driven Chardonnays, and this is to be welcomed.

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