2007 Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Cuvée Centenaire, Domaine les Cailloux, Rhône

Domaine les Cailloux

André Brunel is one of the shrewdest producers in Châteauneuf-Du-Pape and consistently produces some of the best examples from an appellation that is so often overhyped and overpriced. His family has been producing wine in Châteauneuf since the 18th century and André joined his father in the cellars in 1971. He now has 21 hectares of vineyards located at Mont Redon near the north-east boundary of the Châteauneuf appellation.

Les Cailloux is named after the famous "galet roulés" or pudding stones, that lie on many of the soils in Châteauneuf. Andre`s Châteauneuf is typically a blend of 65% Grenache, 20% Mourvèdre, 10% Syrah and 5% made up from other varieties. All the grapes are now destemmed before being fermented in a combination of enamel Vats and wooden foudres. The wine is then matured in a mixture of enamel vats, new and old wooden pièces, and new barriques. The different components are then assembled and the wine is then bottled unfined and unfiltered.

Châteauneuf-du-Pape

The most celebrated village of the Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape is the birthplace of the now indispensable French Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée system – imperfect though it may be. Compared to the Northern Rhône, the vineyards here are relatively flat and often feature the iconic galet pebbles – the precise benefits of which are a source of much debate. Minimum alcohol levels required by the AOC are the highest in France, but at 12.5% it is well below the natural generosity of Grenache, which only achieves its full aromatic potential when it is fully ripe and laden with the resultant high sugars. Syrah and Mourvèdre contribute the other defining elements in the blend, adding pepper, savoury spice and structure to the decadent Grenache. There are a further 10 permitted red grape varieties which can be used to adjust the “seasoning”. Of the five white varieties permitted, it is Grenache Noir’s sibling – predictably perhaps – Grenache Blanc, which dominates, though Roussanne shows a great deal of promise when handled well, notably at Château de Beaucastel.

Southern Rhône Blend

The vast majority of wines from the Southern Rhône are blends. There are 5 main black varieties, although others are used and the most famous wine of the region, Châteauneuf du Pape, can be made from as many as 13 different varieties. Grenache is the most important grape in the southern Rhône - it contributes alcohol, warmth and gentle juicy fruit and is an ideal base wine in the blend. Plantings of Syrah in the southern Rhône have risen dramatically in the last decade and it is an increasingly important component in blends. It rarely attains the heights that it does in the North but adds colour, backbone, tannins and soft ripe fruit to the blend.

The much-maligned Carignan has been on the retreat recently but is still included in many blends - the best old vines can add colour, body and spicy fruits. Cinsault is also backtracking but, if yields are restricted, can produce moderately well-coloured wines adding pleasant-light fruit to red and rosé blends. Finally, Mourvèdre, a grape from Bandol on the Mediterranean coast, has recently become an increasingly significant component of Southern Rhône blends - it often struggles to ripen fully but can add acidity, ripe spicy berry fruits and hints of tobacco to blends.