2010 Bourgogne Passetoutgrains, L'Exception, Domaine Michel Lafarge

2010 Bourgogne Passetoutgrains, L'Exception, Domaine Michel Lafarge

Product: 20101150689
2010 Bourgogne Passetoutgrains, L'Exception, Domaine Michel Lafarge

Description

Both of the Lafarge cuves of Passetoutgrains are exceptionally good this year, but we have plumped for the bottling from the ancient vines which is deep dark and rich in fruit, with a refreshing touch of pepper and acidity. It is such a spectacular wine that Michel thinks it will keep for up to 20 years, I suggest we had better be slightly more conservative!
Jasper Morris MW, Burgundy Director

There is 40% less wine this year in the Lafarge cellar, and it is a great pity because the wines are exceptionally good. They began picking on 23rd September, bringing in ripe and healthy grapes which were slow to start fermenting. Michel Lafarge, as sprightly as ever at 83, describes 2010 as a happy surprise nobody could have expected this quality at the outset.

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About this WINE

Domaine Michel Lafarge

Domaine Michel Lafarge

Michel Lafarge, now in his eighties, and his son Frédéric make use of their combined experience top produce some of the greatest Burgundy wines in Volnay. There is nothing modern in their winemaking, though the meticulous care of their biodynamically farmed vineyards puts the domaine at the forefront of viticultural practices. When they are working ona  patch of vines they are usually accompanied by their hens who eat up any little pests which may be lurking!

They have around 10 hectares of vines and own some of the very best sites in Volnay. The vines are mature but not excessively old and yields are low without being draconian. There is very little new oak used, and the current mix is 5% new oak, with the balance of 2-to 5-year-old wood. The wines are handled as seldom as possible, with only a couple of rackings, a light fining and rarely any filtration.

The Lafarge domaine is run very much by instinct and respect for the terroir, with no sense of imposition and with biodynamic techniques. The wines are allowed to speak for themselves and are wonderfully fragrant, complex and harmonious - the essence of great Volnay.

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Bourgogne Passetoutgrains

Bourgogne Passetoutgrains

The appellation Bourgogne Passetoutgrains  is the only exception to the usual rule in Burgundy that wines are made from single grape varieties. The rule states that this wine must be made from at least 30% Pinot Noir.

Bourgogne Passe-Tout-Grains is allowed to be produced in the entire area known as the basic Bourgogne appellation. This  encompasses 91 communes from the department of Côte d'Or, 85 communes of Rhône (not to be confused with the wine region Rhône), 154 communes of Saône et Loire region and 54 communes of Yonne.

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Pinot Noir

Pinot Noir

Pinot Noir is probably the most frustrating, and at times infuriating, wine grape in the world. However when it is successful, it can produce some of the most sublime wines known to man. This thin-skinned grape which grows in small, tight bunches performs well on well-drained, deepish limestone based subsoils as are found on Burgundy's Côte d'Or.

Pinot Noir is more susceptible than other varieties to over cropping - concentration and varietal character disappear rapidly if yields are excessive and yields as little as 25hl/ha are the norm for some climats of the Côte d`Or.

Because of the thinness of the skins, Pinot Noir wines are lighter in colour, body and tannins. However the best wines have grip, complexity and an intensity of fruit seldom found in wine from other grapes. Young Pinot Noir can smell almost sweet, redolent with freshly crushed raspberries, cherries and redcurrants. When mature, the best wines develop a sensuous, silky mouth feel with the fruit flavours deepening and gamey "sous-bois" nuances emerging.

The best examples are still found in Burgundy, although Pinot Noir`s key role in Champagne should not be forgotten. It is grown throughout the world with notable success in the Carneros and Russian River Valley districts of California, and the Martinborough and Central Otago regions of New Zealand.

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Reviews

Customer reviews

Wine Advocate87-88/100

Critic reviews

Wine Advocate87-88/100
The 2010 Bourgogne Passetoutgrain LException reveals a darker profile and more depth than the straight Passetoutgrains, largely owing to the old age (85+ years) of the wines in this parcel on the Volnay/Meursault border. White flowers and cracked pepper add complexity on the generous, juicy finish. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2018.
Antonio Galloni - 29/02/2012 Read more