2010 Cornas, Granit 30, Domaine Vincent Paris, Rhône
Critics reviews
(Robert Parker - Wine Advocate - Oct 2011)
(Robert Parker - Wine Advocate - Oct 2011)
About this WINE
Domaine Vincent Paris
Having started as a vigneron in 1997, Vincent is now the proud owner of eight hectares across the Northern Rhône. Some are situated on the perilously steep slopes at the top of the hill, looking down on the village itself. Indeed, the numbers on his Granit cuvées refer to the degree of the slopes on which they grow. His wines are made without new oak and are also unfiltered – letting the natural power of his vines and terroir speak for itself. His ’20s are bold but, as ever, balanced. Fresher and more chiselled than one has come to expect of Cornas, they combine power with elegance and finesse.
The Granit cuvées are grown on east-facing granite slopes and are made with mostly de-stemmed fruit. His prestigious La Geynale is one of only two south-facing slopes in Cornas (the other being Reynard), so it benefits from an especially warm microclimate. This cuvée, made from 100-year-old vines, is fermented using entirely whole-bunch; which brings perfume and crunch to match the power. All his Cornas wines promise a long, rewarding life in the cellar.
Cornas
Cornas is a small appellation, just 150 hectares, located south of St Joseph. It’s on the west side of the river. The name “Cornas” comes from an old Celtic dialect term, meaning “burnt land”, so it’s no surprise that on the steep terraces here, facing south, temperatures are significantly higher than those in Hermitage, which is just 7km away.
The granite soils are home to the Syrah grape, producing reds that sit somewhere between those of Hermitage and Côte-Rôtie. These are strong and powerful wines, with nervy acidity and a robust, rustic charm to them. Their prominent tannins mean that they often demand time in the cellar to express their underlying elegance and complexity.
Syrah/Shiraz
A noble black grape variety grown particularly in the Northern Rhône where it produces the great red wines of Hermitage, Cote Rôtie and Cornas, and in Australia where it produces wines of startling depth and intensity. Reasonably low yields are a crucial factor for quality as is picking at optimum ripeness. Its heartland, Hermitage and Côte Rôtie, consists of 270 hectares of steeply terraced vineyards producing wines that brim with pepper, spices, tar and black treacle when young. After 5-10 years they become smooth and velvety with pronounced fruit characteristics of damsons, raspberries, blackcurrants and loganberries.
It is now grown extensively in the Southern Rhône where it is blended with Grenache and Mourvèdre to produce the great red wines of Châteauneuf du Pape and Gigondas amongst others. Its spiritual home in Australia is the Barossa Valley, where there are plantings dating as far back as 1860. Australian Shiraz tends to be sweeter than its Northern Rhône counterpart and the best examples are redolent of new leather, dark chocolate, liquorice, and prunes and display a blackcurrant lusciousness.
South African producers such as Eben Sadie are now producing world- class Shiraz wines that represent astonishing value for money.
When is a wine ready to drink?
We provide drinking windows for all our wines. Alongside the drinking windows there is a bottle icon and a maturity stage. Bear in mind that the best time to drink a wine does also depend on your taste.
Not ready
These wines are very young. Whilst they're likely to have lots of intense flavours, their acidity or tannins may make them feel austere. Although it isn't "wrong" to drink these wines now, you are likely to miss out on a lot of complexity by not waiting for them to mature.
Ready - youthful
These wines are likely to have plenty of fruit flavours still and, for red wines, the tannins may well be quite noticeable. For those who prefer younger, fruitier wines, or if serving alongside a robust meal, these will be very enjoyable. If you choose to hold onto these wines, the fruit flavours will evolve into more savoury complexity.
Ready - at best
These wines are likely to have a beautiful balance of fruit, spice and savoury flavours. The acidity and tannins will have softened somewhat, and the wines will show plenty of complexity. For many, this is seen as the ideal time to drink and enjoy these wines. If you choose to hold onto these wines, they will become more savoury but not necessarily more complex.
Ready - mature
These wines are likely to have plenty of complexity, but the fruit flavours will have been almost completely replaced by savoury and spice notes. These wines may have a beautiful texture at this stage of maturity. There is lots to enjoy when drinking wines at this stage. Most of these wines will hold in this window for a few years, though at the very end of this drinking window, wines start to lose complexity and decline.
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Description
Granit 30 is an appropriate name, describing, as it does, both the soil and the gradient of the Parisian vineyard. Vincent’s wines are marked by both their perfume and their purity and this is a very fine example. The wine boasts aromatics of violets, licorice and garrigue and a weighty palate, with herbs, dark chocolate and a fruit character of dark cherry and myrtle.
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer, February 2012
Our relationship with Vincent Paris, the unassuming but talented nephew of Robert Michel, was momentarily threatened by what we felt to be far too much volatile acidity in his 2008 wines. Fortunately the error was both acknowledged and rectified; only the very able can be so humble in contrition, and the subsequent vintages have both been magnificent. Having such ideally-located vineyards is, of course, rather helpful in this regard.
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