2010 Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Mourre des Perdrix, Domaine de la Charbonnière

2010 Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Mourre des Perdrix, Domaine de la Charbonnière

Product: 20108027964
2010 Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Mourre des Perdrix, Domaine de la Charbonnière

Description

A single 8 hectare parcel, this evocatively named cuvée is floral, fruity and feminine, with blackberry and forest floor on the nose and a delightful silky palate.
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer, February 2012

Our first visit of our Southern Rhône week, and a most agreeable one, despite the early hour, Charbonnière continues to excel and, forgive the tautology, to develop as a classic traditional Châteauneuf-du-Pape. The transition from père Michel to daughters Véronique and Caroline has been seamless and the quality gets better and better. Véronique compares 2010 with 2005 and 2000; for her 2009 was more like 2007, with a little more ‘residual’ sugar, courtesy of the Grenache.

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About this WINE

Domaine de la Charbonniere

Domaine de la Charbonniere

Domaine de la Charbonnière was purchased by Eugene Maret in 1912. 90 years later and it is still a family-owned affair. The taciturn Michel Maret is a man of the soil, his reticence more than compensated by the eloquence of his wines, on the one hand, and the loquacious nature of his wife on the other. The two charming daughters, Véronique and Caroline, have found respective niches in the vineyard and the commercial function. All in all a complete and happy team, a facet once again echoed in the wines.Domaine de la Charbonniere owns 17.5 hectares of vineyards in the Châteauneuf du Pape appellation, as well as 4 hectares in Vacqueyras. Michel produces wonderfully well balanced wines that combine intensity and depth of fruit with finesse and elegance.

Michel Maret produces a number of different cuvees all from low yields and all bottled without filtration. His village cuvee is one of the best value wines in the appellation while the Cuvée Traditionnelle is a model of balance and purity of fruit.

The Cuvée Vieilles Vignes is produced from La Crau and is silkily rich with marvellous ageing potential while the Hautes Brusquières is a perennial favourite, atypical as it is with its high Syrah component. This is now one of Châteauneuf's leading domains and one can expect the quality to improve even more in the future if past results are any kind of guide.

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Châteauneuf-du-Pape

Châteauneuf-du-Pape

The most celebrated village of the Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape is the birthplace of the now indispensable French Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée system – imperfect though it may be. Compared to the Northern Rhône, the vineyards here are relatively flat and often feature the iconic galet pebbles – the precise benefits of which are a source of much debate. Minimum alcohol levels required by the AOC are the highest in France, but at 12.5% it is well below the natural generosity of Grenache, which only achieves its full aromatic potential when it is fully ripe and laden with the resultant high sugars. Syrah and Mourvèdre contribute the other defining elements in the blend, adding pepper, savoury spice and structure to the decadent Grenache. There are a further 10 permitted red grape varieties which can be used to adjust the “seasoning”. Of the five white varieties permitted, it is Grenache Noir’s sibling – predictably perhaps – Grenache Blanc, which dominates, though Roussanne shows a great deal of promise when handled well, notably at Château de Beaucastel.

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Southern Rhône Blend

Southern Rhône Blend

The vast majority of wines from the Southern Rhône are blends. There are 5 main black varieties, although others are used and the most famous wine of the region, Châteauneuf du Pape, can be made from as many as 13 different varieties. Grenache is the most important grape in the southern Rhône - it contributes alcohol, warmth and gentle juicy fruit and is an ideal base wine in the blend. Plantings of Syrah in the southern Rhône have risen dramatically in the last decade and it is an increasingly important component in blends. It rarely attains the heights that it does in the North but adds colour, backbone, tannins and soft ripe fruit to the blend.

The much-maligned Carignan has been on the retreat recently but is still included in many blends - the best old vines can add colour, body and spicy fruits. Cinsault is also backtracking but, if yields are restricted, can produce moderately well-coloured wines adding pleasant-light fruit to red and rosé blends. Finally, Mourvèdre, a grape from Bandol on the Mediterranean coast, has recently become an increasingly significant component of Southern Rhône blends - it often struggles to ripen fully but can add acidity, ripe spicy berry fruits and hints of tobacco to blends.

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Critics reviews

Wine Advocate94/100
Jancis Robinson MW17.5/20
Wine Advocate94/100
Lastly, the 2010 Chateauneuf du Pape Mourre des Perdrix is the most fine, elegant and silky, with beautiful notes of dried flowers, black raspberry, dried earth and spice. Medium to full-bodied, pure and layered, its not a blockbuster, but it shines for its balance, length and texture. Coming from the sandy, clay soils located just behind the estate, this cuvee is always the most fine, elegant and lightly textured of the special cuvees, yet it ages gracefully on its balance. Drink it anytime over the coming 10-15 years.
Jeb Dunnuck - 28/10/2016 Read more
Jancis Robinson MW17.5/20
Dark blackish crimson. Something a little raw and green on the nose here. Sweet start and then blackberries. Good and lively and very concentrated with fine tannins underneath. This should disappoint no one.
(Jancis Robinson & Julia Harding MW - www.jancisrobinson.com - 20 Dec 2011) Read more