2010 Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Cuvée Da Capo, Rouge, Domaine du Pegau

2010 Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Cuvée Da Capo, Rouge, Domaine du Pegau

Product: 20108116268
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2010 Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Cuvée Da Capo, Rouge, Domaine du Pegau

Description

Cuvée da Capo is, we very much hope, nothing to do with the Mafia, rather it is a single foudre of no specific provenance, which is selected only in exceptional years (2009, amazingly, did not make the cut) and aged for significantly longer than the Reservée. The resulting wine is often seen as the very best in the appellation. The 2010 is tighter than the Reservée, unsurprisingly, but behind the brooding beast there is an impressive fruit character….,the sweet and the savoury are rehearsing their pas de deux which will be sure to impress even the strictest of judges.
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer, February 2012

One must always expect the unexpected chez Pegau. This time we were greeted by a disembodied voice, seemingly from a distant echo chamber. It turned out that Laurence was cleaning out a foudre, from the inside, and had overlooked our arrival time. This hands-on approach is typical of an extraordinarily energetic vigneronne, who has risen to the very top by a winning and somewhat paradoxical combination of dogged determination and sheer hard work, flavoured with a dose of humility. Pegau is now seen as the very best of the ‘traditional’ Châteauneuf wines, most eloquently illustrated by the 2010s.

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About this WINE

Domaine de Pegau

Domaine de Pegau

The Feraud family of Domaine du Pegau, including daughter Laurence and the father Paul, are fervent proponents of the most traditional wine-making style of Provence and Rhone. It is widely regarded as one of the leading producers in Châteauneuf-du-Pape. The property in Châteauneuf is made up of eleven separate vineyard parcels spread throughout the Courthézon,La Solitude and Bédarrides sector of the appellation.

 The Châteauneuf  red (a small quantity of white is also produced) is a blend of 75% Grenache, 20% Syrah, with the remaining 5% being made up of Mourvèdre, Counoise and other varieties. The grapes are hand harvested and are then fermented without being de-stemmed. The cuvaison lasts for 12-15 days and the wine is then aged for around 18 months in old oak foudres. No fining or filtration is carried out. The Cuvée Laurence is the same wine as the Cuvée Réservée but is kept in wooden cask for another 18-24 months before being bottled. These are rich, robust and concentrated wines, which tend to show at their best with 7-8 years of bottle age.

Pegau’s expanding wine production comprises the estate in Chateauneuf du Pape (approximately 47 acres) a vin de pays, a vin de table,  a negociant label (Laurence Feraud, mostly Cotes du Rhones) and a second negociant line-up sold under the moniker Feraud-Brunel, which Laurence oversees along with Andre Brunel. Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee da Capo is produced from the appellation’s well-known sector known as La Crau.

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Châteauneuf-du-Pape

Châteauneuf-du-Pape

The most celebrated village of the Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape is the birthplace of the now indispensable French Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée system – imperfect though it may be. Compared to the Northern Rhône, the vineyards here are relatively flat and often feature the iconic galet pebbles – the precise benefits of which are a source of much debate. Minimum alcohol levels required by the AOC are the highest in France, but at 12.5% it is well below the natural generosity of Grenache, which only achieves its full aromatic potential when it is fully ripe and laden with the resultant high sugars. Syrah and Mourvèdre contribute the other defining elements in the blend, adding pepper, savoury spice and structure to the decadent Grenache. There are a further 10 permitted red grape varieties which can be used to adjust the “seasoning”. Of the five white varieties permitted, it is Grenache Noir’s sibling – predictably perhaps – Grenache Blanc, which dominates, though Roussanne shows a great deal of promise when handled well, notably at Château de Beaucastel.

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Southern Rhône Blend

Southern Rhône Blend

The vast majority of wines from the Southern Rhône are blends. There are 5 main black varieties, although others are used and the most famous wine of the region, Châteauneuf du Pape, can be made from as many as 13 different varieties. Grenache is the most important grape in the southern Rhône - it contributes alcohol, warmth and gentle juicy fruit and is an ideal base wine in the blend. Plantings of Syrah in the southern Rhône have risen dramatically in the last decade and it is an increasingly important component in blends. It rarely attains the heights that it does in the North but adds colour, backbone, tannins and soft ripe fruit to the blend.

The much-maligned Carignan has been on the retreat recently but is still included in many blends - the best old vines can add colour, body and spicy fruits. Cinsault is also backtracking but, if yields are restricted, can produce moderately well-coloured wines adding pleasant-light fruit to red and rosé blends. Finally, Mourvèdre, a grape from Bandol on the Mediterranean coast, has recently become an increasingly significant component of Southern Rhône blends - it often struggles to ripen fully but can add acidity, ripe spicy berry fruits and hints of tobacco to blends.

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Critics reviews

The Wine Advocate100/100
Jancis Robinson MW18.5/20
Robert Parker98-100/100
The Wine Advocate100/100
Comprised of roughly 85% Grenache and the rest Syrah and other permitted varieties, aged all in foudre, the 2010 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee da Capo is sheer perfection in a glass. Wine doesnt get any better. Incredibly rich and concentrated, yet ethereal and even graceful, it boasts off-the-hook aromas of blackberry, licorice, spice-box, smoked meats and underbrush that continue to change and develop in the glass. Massive and decadent on the palate, yet again, with no weight and a seamless texture, this brilliant effort needs a handful of years in the cellar and will live to see its 30th birthday in fine form. Drink 2016-2040.
Jeb Dunnuck - 31/10/2013 Read more
Jancis Robinson MW18.5/20
Ch Pegau, Da Capo 2010 Châteauneuf-du-Pape - This sélection parcellaire is made only in superior vintages (2000, 2003 and 2007 in the last decade). It's aged for more than two years in foudres. Extremely sweet and lively. Racy, dense, notable tannins, extremely vivacious. Long and very rich indeed, even though the residual sugar is actually less than 1 g/l apparently. A loud wine.
(Jancis Robinson & Julia Harding MW - www.jancisrobinson.com - 20 Dec 2011) Read more
Robert Parker98-100/100
While no 2009 Cuvee da Capo was produced, the 2010 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee da Capo was produced primarily from the old vines they own in the famed La Crau sector. To be bottled after spending 18 months in old wood foudres, the 2010 is another gorgeous effort.

Its deep black/plum color is accompanied by sweet notes of chocolate-covered figs, kirsch, black currants, cedar, smoked meats and charcuterie. Very intense with enormous texture, massive fruit, moderate tannin and a long finish, the vintage’s acids are present, but beautifully integrated. This bigger than life wine should easily evolve for three decades or more. Stylistically, it resembles the 1998 Capo more than the 2000, 2003 or 2007.

One of the bastions of traditionalism in Chateauneuf du Pape is Domaine de Pegau, long owned by the Feraud family, and now run by the charming, talented Laurence, who was exceptionally well-schooled by her father, Paul. This nearly 50-acre estate fashions some of the longest-lived, most interesting wines of the appellation.

The success they have enjoyed with their estate wines has allowed the Ferauds to branch out with a small negociant operation that includes selections Laurence makes through her contacts in the southern Rhone as well as wines she co-producers with another Chateauneuf du Pape name well-known for high quality, Andre Brunel
(Robert Parker - Wine Advocate #197 Oct 2011) Read more