2011 Champagne Philipponnat, Clos des Goisses, Extra Brut

2011 Champagne Philipponnat, Clos des Goisses, Extra Brut

Product: 20118110022
 
2011 Champagne Philipponnat, Clos des Goisses, Extra Brut

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Description

100% Pinot Noir. Disgorged March 2020. Dosage 4.5 g/l.

An intriguing wine that at this youthful stage gives just a soupçon at the pleasures to come. Gentle wafts of apple flesh and custard creams are backed up by a mineral, chalky quality that carries through to the palate. The texture is deliciously creamy with suggestions of hazelnuts and almonds that segue between crab apple, smoke and salty minerality. This is quite reserved at present, but there is a satisfying solidity and drive to the finish that suggests it will age gracefully.

Clos des Goisses is divided into 14 plots, of which only the four best of 2011 were included in this blend. For the first time composed solely of Pinot Noir, due to the uprooting of Chardonnay vines in certain plots just before 2011, and the atypical and exceptionally floral aromatic profile of the vintage’s Pinot Noirs. Aged at least eight years, at a constant temperature of 12°C in the House’s historic cellars in Mareuil-sur-Ay. The very low, Extra-Brut dosage (4.25 g/litre) gives full expression to the vinosity and minerality of this exceptional vineyard. 

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Critics reviews

Burghound93/100

100% Pinot Noir, disgorged March 2020, 4.5 g/L.

An elegant, pure and wafting nose freely offers up its softly yeasty aromas of apple, quinine and ripe citrus elements, especially Meyer lemon. There is excellent richness to the relatively full-bodied and beautifully textured flavours that are supported by a decidedly pliant mousse before concluding in a complex and sneaky long finish. This is a decidedly rich and generously proportioned vintage for Clos des Goisses and as such, it is already drinking quite well though I underscore that it should continue to age well. I would be inclined to enjoy it now but if your taste runs to that very toasty/yeasty character-aged Champagne often develops, this would be a good candidate for that.

Drink now +

Allen Meadows, Burghound.com (October 2021)

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Antonio Galloni, Vinous93/100

The dosage is 4.5 litres per gram.

The 2011 Extra-Brut Clos des Goisses is bright and perfumed, with lovely energy driving the citrus, floral and savoury notes. In 2011, Clos des Goisses is a touch lithe, but its balance is simply impeccable. In 2011, Clos des Goisses is, unusually, 100% Pinot Noir, taken from just four of the fourteen Goisses parcels, the result of some of the Chardonnay parcels being replanted and the Pinots having distinctly Chardonnay-like characteristics. Given the challenges of the year, I would not push my luck on ageing. If there is one 2011 I would be willing to bet on, at least for the medium term, it is Clos des Goisses.

Drink 2020 - 2031

Antonio Galloni, Vinous.com (November 2020)

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Wine Advocate91/100

Tasted at the domaine in April 2018.

The 100% Pinot Noir 2011 Blanc de Noirs Extra-Brut is the third vintage after 2008 and 2009 and is sourced in premier and grand crus, mainly from own vineyards in Mareuil and Avenay, plus purchased grapes from Mailly and Sillery. The wine opens with a very clear, delicate, pretty deep and spicy bouquet of red (currant) fruit intermixed with vegetal notes. The palate is medium-weight, round and firmly structured yet finessed and elegant.

Drink 2019 - 2030

Stephan Reinhardt, Wine Advocate (June 2018)

 

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Jancis Robinson MW18.5+/20

100% Pinot Noir. Disgorged March 2020. Dosage 4.5 g/l.

Bright copper colour. Very savoury, dense, dry nose. Tight bead and more than a little pungency on the finish. So long and intense. Still quite tightly packed in, so that the finish is positively electric! This is stunning with some vibrant green vegetation notes. Note the much higher alcohol than is usual for champagne. This just goes on and on and is all youthful pleasure. So many waves of rich minerality. Up there with the best.

Drink 2020 - 2033

Jancis Robinson MW, JancisRobinson.com (November 2020)

 

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Decanter96/100

Dosage: 4.5 g/L. Disgorgement: March 2020.

For the first time, the Clos des Goisses Champagne is entirely composed of Pinot Noir. Of the 14 parcels that compose the clos, grapes were sourced from only four for this vintage. Clos des Goisses 2011 is particularly floral with notes of iris, jasmine, roses as well as spring herbs. The nose is delightfully complicated by delicate citrus notes and hints of white peach. On the palate, the massive, full-bodied side of Clos des Goisses is certainly present but there seems to be less density than certain vintages. This is a more crystalline, precise expression of Clos des Goisses, one endowed with a fine and pure texture. Bravo!

Drink 2030 - 2050

Yohan Castaing, Decanter.com (October 2020)

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About this WINE

Champagne Philipponnat

Champagne Philipponnat

Champagne Philipponnat is based in Mareuil sur Aÿ Roman in along the banks of the River Marne. Philipponnat makes a wide range of wines but the house’s fame rests squarely on the monumental Clos des Goisses, a Pinot-dominated Champagne that emerges from a 5.5 hectare vineyard in Mareuil-sur-Ay.

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Blanc de Noirs

Blanc de Noirs

Blanc de Noirs describes a wine produced entirely from black grapes. In Champagne, Blanc de Noirs cuvée can be made from the two black grapes permitted within the appellation, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier. Bollinger's prestige cuvée Vieilles Vignes Françaises, from ungrafted, old Pinot Noir vines, has set the yardstick in a style that is now produced by a number of other Champagne houses.

A typical Blanc de Noirs cuvée has a deep golden colour, and can be more intensely flavoured than the classic non-vintage, multi-grape blend.

Recommended Producers: Cedric Bouchard, Bollinger

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Champagne blend

Champagne blend

Which grapes are included in the blend, and their proportion, is one of the key factors determining the style of most Champagnes. Three grapes are used - Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier.

26% of vineyards in Champagne are planted with Chardonnay and it performs best on the Côtes des Blancs and on the chalk slopes south of Epernay. It is relatively simple to grow, although it buds early and thus is susceptible to spring frosts. It produces lighter, fresher wines than those from Burgundy and gives finesse, fruit and elegance to the final blend. It is the sole grape in Blancs de Blancs, which are some of the richest long-lived Champagnes produced.

Pinot Noir accounts for nearly 40% of the plantings in Champagne and lies at the heart of most blends - it gives Champagne its body, structure, strength and grip. It is planted across Champagne and particularly so in the southern Aube district.

The final component is Pinot Meunier and this constitutes nearly 35% of the plantings. Its durability and resistance to spring frosts make the Marne Valley, a notorious frost pocket, its natural home. It ripens well in poor years and produces a soft, fruity style of wine that is ideal for blending with the more assertive flavours of Pinot Noir. Producers allege that Pinot Meunier lacks ageing potential, but this does not deter Krug from including around 15% of it in their final blends.


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When is a wine ready to drink?

We provide drinking windows for all our wines. Alongside the drinking windows there is a bottle icon and a maturity stage. Bear in mind that the best time to drink a wine does also depend on your taste.

Not ready

These wines are very young. Whilst they're likely to have lots of intense flavours, their acidity or tannins may make them feel austere. Although it isn't "wrong" to drink these wines now, you are likely to miss out on a lot of complexity by not waiting for them to mature.

Ready - youthful

These wines are likely to have plenty of fruit flavours still and, for red wines, the tannins may well be quite noticeable. For those who prefer younger, fruitier wines, or if serving alongside a robust meal, these will be very enjoyable. If you choose to hold onto these wines, the fruit flavours will evolve into more savoury complexity.

Ready - at best

These wines are likely to have a beautiful balance of fruit, spice and savoury flavours. The acidity and tannins will have softened somewhat, and the wines will show plenty of complexity. For many, this is seen as the ideal time to drink and enjoy these wines. If you choose to hold onto these wines, they will become more savoury but not necessarily more complex.

Ready - mature

These wines are likely to have plenty of complexity, but the fruit flavours will have been almost completely replaced by savoury and spice notes. These wines may have a beautiful texture at this stage of maturity. There is lots to enjoy when drinking wines at this stage. Most of these wines will hold in this window for a few years, though at the very end of this drinking window, wines start to lose complexity and decline.