2011 Berry Bros. & Rudd Glen Garioch, Cask Ref. 08028, Bottled 2023, Highland, Single Malt Scotch Whisky (58.4%)
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Glen Garioch Distillery, Highlands
Glen Garioch distillery is one of the oldest in Scotland, having been founded in 1798. This was the heartland of the northern Picts, and the district has the greatest concentration of carved stones and Pictish monuments in Scotland. It is named after the valley of the Garioch, the ‘Granary of Aberdeenshire’, where the finest Scottish barley can be grown thanks to the mid climate of plentiful sunshine and not too much rain. It was definitely working during the late 18th century under Thomas Simpson, but Historic Scotland lists its four-storey Georgian alt barn and twin pagoda chimneys c. 1780. It was extended to three stills in 1973 and has suffered several periods of closure, most recently in the mid-1990s. To the delight of many, this charming distillery in the Aberdeenshire market town of Old Meldrum was refurbished and re-opened again in 1997.
The process water is drawn from Coutens spring on Percock Hill, on the Meldrum House estate. Until 1997 the distillery operated its own floor maltings with peat cut locally from New Pitsligo. The vintage malts are therefore fairly heavily peated, but they should be much less so in future editions as unpeated malted barley is now readily available and supplied to order.
The distillery operates a stainless steel mash tun, eight stainless steel washbacks, one wash still and two small spirit stills only of which is currently in use. The whisky is matured in ex-Bourbon American Oak and ex-Sherry European oak casks, in warehouses at the site.
Maybe because it is the largest geographical area, the Highlands is also the hardest Whisky region to pin down stylistically. For this reason it is easiest not to consider the Highlands as one large are, but as 4 smaller and much more distinct ones.
North-Highland malts tend to be light bodied, delicate whiskies with complex aromas and a dryish finish sometimes spicy, sometimes with a trace of salt. Northern Highland distilleries are almost all coastal. The most northerly is Old Pulteney, situated about as far north as you can go in Wick, which produces a delicious, fragrant, dry whisky.
Working south along the route of the A9, next comes Clynelish at Brora (built in 1969, beside an earlier distillery who’s whiskies are known as Brora) - a sophisticated and complex whisky older expressions are very highly regarded and the malt deserves to be better known. Perhaps the reason that it is rarely seen as a distillery bottling is that it’s malt is a key component of Johnnie Walker.
The best known of all the Northern Highland malts is Glenmorangie. Glenmorangie, is made at Tain on the Cromarty Firth, and is the most popular malt in Scotland. Over the last decade Glenmorangie pioneered the now often copied process of wood finishing. Althoght this process is not universally popular; it transformed the company’s commercial success.
The Eastern Highlands produce a number of whiskies that can be confused with those of Speyside. In the north of the region close to the southern border of Speyside, whiskies which are smooth, sometimes with a little smoke, malty-sweet, such as Macduff, Ardmore, Glen Garioch and Knockdhu are made.
Further south is Fettercairn, and Glencadam, at Brechin, which produces an unusual creamy, fruity malt. The area between the Moray and the Tay has two distilleries of note; Royal Lochnagar and Glendronach. The first is a wonderfully smooth, rich whisky made in the shadow of the mountain of the same name in a distillery established in 1825 The second is also luscious and often sherried.
In the Western Highlands there only two distilleries on the mainland those of Oban and Ben Nevis. Oban is a perfect, sheltered harbour makes it the principal seaport for the Isles and the capital of the West Highlands. Its whisky has a misty, briny character, with a background of heather and peat.
The Oban whisky stills used are among the smallest in Scotland; the cramped nature of the site is attested to by the odd position of the worm tubs, fed by unusually short lyne arms, and nestled in the ‘vee’ between the roofs of the still house and an adjoining building.
The whiskies of the Central Highlands are a mixed bag. Generally they are lighter-bodied and sweeter that their cousins to the east, but not as sweet as Speysides.
The Central Highland single malts used to be known as 'Perthshire Whiskies'. Most are found along the valleys of the Tay and its tributaries. The furthest north is Dalwhinnie, which is almost in Speyside indeed; it is at the very head of the river, over sixty miles from Grantown-on-Spey.
Blair Athol and Edradour whisky distilleries are both near Pitlochrie. The former was founded in the 1790s and was substantially rebuilt in 1949 Edradour is the smallest distillery in Scotland - a happy survivor of the days of 'farm distilleries' - yet produces a clean, fresh, attractive and justly popular whisky.
South again is Aberfeldy distillery, on the edge of the pretty town of the same name. Glenturret, at Crieff is one of the claimants to being the oldest distillery, although it was dismantled in the 1920s and is much changed.
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Glen Garioch and Sherry wood are one of the finest matches in the whisky world – which is why this robust malt has spent the last two years building some extra muscle in a first-fill butt. The bouquet offers dark chocolate and tea leaves, with prune cake and spiced sultanas appearing with time. Glen Garioch has incredible body, and the palate is notably thick as dried fruit, wood smoke, brambles and oak spice all demand your attention. The finish lasts long, showing a perfect balance of fruit, spice, smoke and Sherry wood. It’s a perfect marriage of wood and distillate.
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