2012 Clos de Vougeot, Grand Cru, Domaine Jean Grivot

2012 Clos de Vougeot, Grand Cru, Domaine Jean Grivot

Product: 20121035580
Prices start from £797.58 per case Buying options
2012 Clos de Vougeot, Grand Cru, Domaine Jean Grivot

Description

Glowing purple in colour, the nose has a sense of majesty to it, with huge intensity: it’s absolutely bounding out of the glass. The palate demonstrates a massive weight of rich, dark red fruit, though we cannot see all the detail yet. However everything suggests that this will prove to be a fabulous example of Clos de Vougeot.
Jasper Morris MW, Burgundy Wine Director

Etienne Grivot describes his 2012s as having glamour on top of the sophistication of 2010. He notes also the generosity of fruit married to perfect acidity in 2012. It was no hardship tasting our way through his range. One minor added sophistication in the Grivot cellar is an amendment to his barrel regime – he now specifies an extra long chauffe to his barrels, though without going beyond his usual medium toast. High prices but fabulous quality.

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6 x 75cl bottle
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About this WINE

Domaine Jean Grivot

Domaine Jean Grivot

Etienne Grivot and his wife Marielle (Patrick Bize's sister) took over from his father in 1990, making him the fifth generation of Grivots to make wine in Vosne-Romanée. In the 1930s it was one of the first domaines to bottle and sell the wines themselves. The Grivots go back a long way in Burgundy. Indeed two previous generations of Grivots have married girls of the same surname. Jean Grivot, whose name continues to appear on the labels, took over from his father in 1955 and handed on to his son Etienne in the early 1980s.
 
Etienne, married to Marielle Bize from Savigny, has been through a number of incarnations as winemaker here. When he took over, his father’s style was for gentle, graceful wines which perhaps were a little weak in the lesser vintages. In 1994, a difficult year but a breakthrough vintage at the domaine, Etienne began to find his own voice and made a range of very fine wines given how poor the weather was. Since then he has not looked back and a drive to reduce yields and fine-tune his work in the vineyards and cellar since the mid-2000s continues to drive quality upwards.
 
Recently big strides have been made on the viticultural front. Etienne has bought a Chenillard caterpillar tractor to work some of the more inaccessible vines and has hired a horse, Pirate, to plough his Richebourg, Échezeaux, Beaumonts, Brûlées, Suchots, Boudots and some village Vosne vineyards. He is not a fan of training the vines too high or of leaf-plucking on the south side, as he prefers a long, slow ripening period.
 
The grapes are 100 percent de-stemmed, though with some experiments where stalks are retained, and the fermentation allowed to start naturally, with a little punching down before this starts. Thereafter there is no more pigeage: “I don’t like to mix the physical [punching down] with the spiritual [fermentation],” says Etienne. Thereafter there is one pump-over per day, before the wines go to barrel once fermentation has finished. Four tonneliers are used so as to avoid the signature of any one. Etienne prefers the wood from the Allier, Tronçais and Bertranges forests, and now buys some of his own wood.

There is an average age of 45- to 50-year-old vines across this 15-hectare domaine which covers 22 appellations (18 red) with holdings in Vosne-Romanée, Nuits-St Georges, Clos de Vougeot, Échezeaux and Richebourg. Etienne produces a range of stunning wines which possess real depth and class. In answer to a question over the secret of his success, he confides, “There's no recipe; it's very personal. As a result, it's very frustrating as one's never content."
The succession to the next generation is now well underway, with Mathilde and Hubert increasingly influential, under their father’s experienced and wise guidance.

These are very personal and undeniably fine wines, with dramatically aromatic notes of red fruits, becoming denser up the range.

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Vougeot

Vougeot

Most of the wine produced in this small village comes from a single, walled Grand Cru vineyard, the famous Clos de Vougeot. The vineyard in its present form dates from 1336 (when it was first planted by monks of Cîteaux), although it was not until the following century that it was entirely enclosed by stone walls. 

Clos de Vougeot is both the smallest commune and the largest Clos in the Cote d’Or. It consists of 50 hectares of vineyards shared among 82 owners, with six soil types. There is quite a difference in quality between the upper (best) and lower (least fine) parts of the vineyard, though in medieval times a blend from all sectors was considered optimum.

Le Domaine de la Vougeraie makes a very fine white wine from Le Clos Blanc de Vougeot, first picked out by the monks of Cîteaux as being suitable ground for white grapes in the year 1110.

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Pinot Noir

Pinot Noir

Pinot Noir is probably the most frustrating, and at times infuriating, wine grape in the world. However when it is successful, it can produce some of the most sublime wines known to man. This thin-skinned grape which grows in small, tight bunches performs well on well-drained, deepish limestone based subsoils as are found on Burgundy's Côte d'Or.

Pinot Noir is more susceptible than other varieties to over cropping - concentration and varietal character disappear rapidly if yields are excessive and yields as little as 25hl/ha are the norm for some climats of the Côte d`Or.

Because of the thinness of the skins, Pinot Noir wines are lighter in colour, body and tannins. However the best wines have grip, complexity and an intensity of fruit seldom found in wine from other grapes. Young Pinot Noir can smell almost sweet, redolent with freshly crushed raspberries, cherries and redcurrants. When mature, the best wines develop a sensuous, silky mouth feel with the fruit flavours deepening and gamey "sous-bois" nuances emerging.

The best examples are still found in Burgundy, although Pinot Noir`s key role in Champagne should not be forgotten. It is grown throughout the world with notable success in the Carneros and Russian River Valley districts of California, and the Martinborough and Central Otago regions of New Zealand.

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Reviews

Customer reviews

The Wine Advocate93/100

Critic reviews

The Wine Advocate93/100
Tasted blind at the annual Burgfest tasting in Beaune. The 2012 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru from Etienne Grivot has a fine bouquet with ebullient red cherry and raspberry fruit, plenty of wild strawberry and white pepper notes. It is sophisticated and very well defined. The palate is medium-bodied with ripe red fruit laced with soy and Provenal herbs, even a suggestion of fennel, fanning out gently on the finish to complete a very satisfying Clos de Vougeot. No surprise when I discovered the identity of the grower.
Neal Martin - 30/10/2015 Read more