2012 Cornas, Chaillot, Thierry Allemand, Rhône
Critics reviews
Jeb Dunnuck - 31/12/2015
About this WINE
Domaine Thierry Allemand
Thierry Allemand one of the protégées of the now retired Robert Michel, is assuming the role of de facto wine master of the somewhat underrated village of Cornas.
Despite their precipitous nature, the slopes of Cornas are sheltered from the Mistral; their vines ripen earlier and their wines have a distinctive, powerful character.
Cornas
Cornas is a small appellation, just 150 hectares, located south of St Joseph. It’s on the west side of the river. The name “Cornas” comes from an old Celtic dialect term, meaning “burnt land”, so it’s no surprise that on the steep terraces here, facing south, temperatures are significantly higher than those in Hermitage, which is just 7km away.
The granite soils are home to the Syrah grape, producing reds that sit somewhere between those of Hermitage and Côte-Rôtie. These are strong and powerful wines, with nervy acidity and a robust, rustic charm to them. Their prominent tannins mean that they often demand time in the cellar to express their underlying elegance and complexity.
Syrah/Shiraz
A noble black grape variety grown particularly in the Northern Rhône where it produces the great red wines of Hermitage, Cote Rôtie and Cornas, and in Australia where it produces wines of startling depth and intensity. Reasonably low yields are a crucial factor for quality as is picking at optimum ripeness. Its heartland, Hermitage and Côte Rôtie, consists of 270 hectares of steeply terraced vineyards producing wines that brim with pepper, spices, tar and black treacle when young. After 5-10 years they become smooth and velvety with pronounced fruit characteristics of damsons, raspberries, blackcurrants and loganberries.
It is now grown extensively in the Southern Rhône where it is blended with Grenache and Mourvèdre to produce the great red wines of Châteauneuf du Pape and Gigondas amongst others. Its spiritual home in Australia is the Barossa Valley, where there are plantings dating as far back as 1860. Australian Shiraz tends to be sweeter than its Northern Rhône counterpart and the best examples are redolent of new leather, dark chocolate, liquorice, and prunes and display a blackcurrant lusciousness.
South African producers such as Eben Sadie are now producing world- class Shiraz wines that represent astonishing value for money.
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Description
There is a little clay (15%) interspersed with the decomposed granite and the wine is accordingly more open with red fruit notes in the ascendant. Very fine but authoritative tannins and whisper of salinity on the finish mark out this cuvée.
Simon Field MW, Rhône Wine Buyer
Driving up from Cornas village to Thierry’s remote winery, following his mother, whose driving was adventurous to say the least, suddenly turned into a scene from a Buñuel film: the mists descended and then suddenly the breaks screeched as we encountered a large black van, the leading vehicle in what turned out to be a funeral cortege. We were spared and the audience with the magus was well worth the risk. His philosophy focuses on whole bunch pressing , pigeage au pied and minimal sulphur and is essentially traditional; he has added the extra dimension of micro-parcel selection and exceptionally low yields, both of which were perhaps less popular with his forebears. Be that as it may, the 2012s demonstrate, once again, the sheer skill of the man.
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