2013 Morey-St Denis, Les Blanchards, 1er Cru, Domaine Arlaud, Burgundy

Domaine Arlaud

Domaine Arlaud Pere & Fils was created by Joseph Arlaud, originally from the Ardèche, in the years after World War II. He was succeeded by his son Hervé, not yet fully retired though he has handed over the running of the domaine to his children. Cyprien has been there since 1998, his brother Romain since 2004, while sister Bertille manages the two Auxois horses used to plough four hectares of their own vineyards and a similar amount for other domaines. The farming has been organic since 2004, currently awaiting certification, and various biodynamic trials are planned. Production expanded to 15 hectares with an agreement to farm the vineyards of Guy Coquard on his retirement in 2004.
 
The Arlauds have retained an attractive cellar in Nuits-St-Georges but the vinification and élévage take place in modern cellars below the main road in Morey. Cyprien Arlaud’s techniques might be described as ‘modern classic’: vibrating sorting table, 100 per cent destalking, cool pre-maceration, pumping over, and a varying proportion of new wood from 20 per cent for village wines to between 40 per cent (Clos de la Roche) and 100 per cent (Clos St-Denis) for the grands crus.

Jasper Morris MW, Burgundy Wine Director and author of the award-winning Inside Burgundy comprehensive handbook.

Morey-Saint-Denis

Morey is sometimes ignored between its two famous neighbours, Chambolle-Musigny and Gevrey-Chambertin, but its wines are of equal class, combining elegance and structure. Morey-St Denis, being that little bit less famous, can often provide excellent value.

The four main Grand Cru vineyards continue in a line from those of Gevrey-Chambertin, with Clos St Denis and Clos de la Roche the most widely available. Clos des Lambrays (almost) and Clos de Tart (entirely) are monopolies of the domains which bear the same names.

Domaine Dujac and Domaine Ponsot also make rare white wines in Morey-St Denis.

• 64 hectares of village Morey-St Denis
• 33 hectares of Premier Cru vineyards (20 in all). Best vineyards include Les Charmes, Les Millandes, Clos de la Bussière, Les Monts Luisants
• 40 hectares of Grand Cru vineyard. Clos de Tart, Clos des Lambrays, Clos de la Roche, Clos St Denis and a tiny part of Bonnes Mares
• Recommended Producers: Dujac, Ponsot, Clos de Tart, Domaine des Lambrays

Pinot Noir

Pinot Noir is probably the most frustrating, and at times infuriating, wine grape in the world. However when it is successful, it can produce some of the most sublime wines known to man. This thin-skinned grape which grows in small, tight bunches performs well on well-drained, deepish limestone based subsoils as are found on Burgundy's Côte d'Or.

Pinot Noir is more susceptible than other varieties to over cropping - concentration and varietal character disappear rapidly if yields are excessive and yields as little as 25hl/ha are the norm for some climats of the Côte d`Or.

Because of the thinness of the skins, Pinot Noir wines are lighter in colour, body and tannins. However the best wines have grip, complexity and an intensity of fruit seldom found in wine from other grapes. Young Pinot Noir can smell almost sweet, redolent with freshly crushed raspberries, cherries and redcurrants. When mature, the best wines develop a sensuous, silky mouth feel with the fruit flavours deepening and gamey "sous-bois" nuances emerging.

The best examples are still found in Burgundy, although Pinot Noir`s key role in Champagne should not be forgotten. It is grown throughout the world with notable success in the Carneros and Russian River Valley districts of California, and the Martinborough and Central Otago regions of New Zealand.