2015 Chassagne-Montrachet, Les Petits Clos, 1er Cru, Domaine Jean-Noël Gagnard, Burgundy
Critics reviews
A fresh, cool, ripe and elegant nose is even more layered with its array of pretty pear, apple, white peach, spice and lemon zest nuances. There is first-rate energy to the lightly mineral-inflected middle weight plus flavours that also brim with dry extract on the markedly dry, clean and focused finish. This is a generously proportioned yet quite well-balanced effort that is presently tightly wound and one that is clearly going to require the better part of a decade to realize its full potential. Recommended.
Drink from 2023 onward
Allen Meadows, Burghound.com (June 2017)
The 2015 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Petits Clos had just been racked. There is a pleasant reduction on the nose even though it had just been racked (although Caroline l'Estime said that it should disappear after fining). The palate is well balanced with crisp acidity, one of the most powerful 2015s from the domaine with a lightly honeyed, dried orange peel-tinged finish. I appreciate the gutsiness here and it will be interesting to watch it develop in bottle.
Drink 2018 - 2026
Neil Martin, Wine Advocate (December 2016)
Again, there is that leesy note initially, followed by a marked cedar/oak aroma. The flavours are intense in both fruit and oak. The wine is concentrated and needs time to settle, but it has terrific focus and length.
Drink 2020 - 2030
Julia Harding MW, JancisRobinson.com (January 2017)
Like the Puligny, the lone Chassagne premier cru in Carillon's cellar is also quite gourmand this year. It reveals aromas of peach, yellow stone fruit, apple, and a subtle top note of petrol. On the palate, the wine has a nice volume and texture. It remains crisp and solid at the core despite its easy-going personality.
Drink 2016 - 2030
William Kelley, Decanter.com
About this WINE
Domaine Jean-Noel Gagnard
Caroline Lestimé took over from her father, Jean-Noël, in 1989, though Domaine Jean-Noël Gagnard still retains his name. The estate’s modern reputation has very much been built by Caroline, who has made it her responsibility to develop the many expressions of Chassagne Montrachet terroirs across her range.
About Domaine Jean-Noël Gagnard
There are 12 different Premiers Crus to choose from; some now carry their own identity, having previously been offered under the larger Morgeot appellation. She has bought more land in Chassagne when available and affordable, and there’s a very well-situated white wine vineyard in the Hautes-Côtes, sold under the L’Estimée brand. Some very attractive reds from Chassagne round off the range.
In the vineyard
The vineyards are all organic, now certified; Caroline plans to put that status on her labels from the 2019 vintage.
In the winery
A little perspective is always an asset with Caroline’s wines: it’s not her style to manipulate or force, and any perception of dumbness is always mitigated once in bottle. Caroline is always very attuned to her wines’ progress during élevage.
Chassagne-Montrachet
When it comes to the world's greatest white wines, the border between Chassagne and Puligny is the ‘X’ that marks the spot, the treasure at the end of the rainbow. Within a few hundred metres lie five wonderful Grands Crus, three of which are in Chassagne. They are led by the luscious, perfumed but variable Le Montrachet, to which Chassagne gained permission in 1879, along with Puligny, to hyphenate its name.
Both Montrachet and the rich, nutty, honeyed Bâtard-Montrachet are shared between Chassagne and Puligny. The fragrant, very fine and rare Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet however, lies entirely within Chassagne's borders. The Grands Crus have their own appellations, which is why Chassagne (or Puligny) does not appear on the label.
Although the most southerly of the three great names of the Côte de Beaune, Chassagne's style is often described as lying between that of Puligny-Montrachet and Meursault: less fine than Puligny, less rich than Meursault but containing elements of both. Chassagne is minerally yet succulent, and often floral with hints of hazelnuts. Despite a bevy of very good Premiers Crus, it is not as good or famous, overall, as Meursault and Puligny, but it is usually extremely good value. Grands Crus should not be opened before eight years of age, and can last for 20 or more. Premiers Crus are at their best from five to 15 years of age; village wines from three to eight.
Perhaps surprisingly, given that the name ‘Montrachet’ is so synonymous with white wine, much of the soil in Chassagne is more suited to Pinot Noir than Chardonnay. Indeed it was only really in the second half of the 20th century that white wines began to dominate here. The reds have a firm tannic style that needs time to soften, with the best examples coming from the Premiers Crus Morgeot, Boudriotte and Clos-St Jean. At their best they combine the weight of the Côte de Nuits with the suppleness of the Côte de Beaune.
180 hectares of village Chassagne-Montrachet
159 hectares of Premier Cru vineyards. Several of the larger ones are subdivided and may be cited under various different names. The best include Caillerets, Ruchottes, Chaumées, La Boudriotte
11 hectares of Grand Cru vineyards: Le Montrachet (part), Bâtard-Montrachet (part) and Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet
Chardonnay
Chardonnay is often seen as the king of white wine grapes and one of the most widely planted in the world It is suited to a wide variety of soils, though it excels in soils with a high limestone content as found in Champagne, Chablis, and the Côte D`Or.
Burgundy is Chardonnay's spiritual home and the best White Burgundies are dry, rich, honeyed wines with marvellous poise, elegance and balance. They are unquestionably the finest dry white wines in the world. Chardonnay plays a crucial role in the Champagne blend, providing structure and finesse, and is the sole grape in Blanc de Blancs.
It is quantitatively important in California and Australia, is widely planted in Chile and South Africa, and is the second most widely planted grape in New Zealand. In warm climates Chardonnay has a tendency to develop very high sugar levels during the final stages of ripening and this can occur at the expense of acidity. Late picking is a common problem and can result in blowsy and flabby wines that lack structure and definition.
Recently in the New World, we have seen a move towards more elegant, better- balanced and less oak-driven Chardonnays, and this is to be welcomed.
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Description
Delicate, light colour with faint green notes, this has a very elegant, classy nose, still with a layer of velvet. This is lively, vibrant and very dense, with pure ripe pears. It is very long and has quite a bit of power behind it; there is exceptional potential here.
The sometimes hesitant Caroline Gagnard was confident when showing us her excellent range of 2015s, and rightly so. Poor conditions during flowering have resulted in a small crop in red but somewhat better for white. Caroline began picking on 31 August and thinks that 2015 resembles a mix of 2010, ‘12, and ‘13, describing the wines as being both “glace et sorbet” – i.e., with the fresh precision of a sorbet and the richer texture of ice cream.
Drink 2019 - 2025
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