2015 Morey-St Denis, Dujac Fils et Père, Burgundy
Critics reviews
Neal Martin - 28/12/2016
About this WINE
Dujac Fils et Pere
Starting with the 2000 vintage, Jeremy Seysses set up a negociant business with his father Jacques in order to make attractive and well-priced wine from their own village Morey-St. Denis, supplemented by a wine each from Gevrey-Chambertin and Chambolle-Musigny. The involvement of Jeremy at the Domaine has encouraged a gentle evolution in style, though the core Dujac principles of elegance and intensity remain firmly in place. The wines retain their characteristic smokiness in youth which develops into an ethereal leafy quality with age. An excellent source for good value Burgundy.
Morey-Saint-Denis
Morey is sometimes ignored between its two famous neighbours, Chambolle-Musigny and Gevrey-Chambertin, but its wines are of equal class, combining elegance and structure. Morey-St Denis, being that little bit less famous, can often provide excellent value.
The four main Grand Cru vineyards continue in a line from those of Gevrey-Chambertin, with Clos St Denis and Clos de la Roche the most widely available. Clos des Lambrays (almost) and Clos de Tart (entirely) are monopolies of the domains which bear the same names.
Domaine Dujac and Domaine Ponsot also make rare white wines in Morey-St Denis.
- 64 hectares of village Morey-St Denis
- 33 hectares of Premier Cru vineyards (20 in all). Best vineyards include Les Charmes, Les Millandes, Clos de la Bussière, Les Monts Luisants
- 40 hectares of Grand Cru vineyard. Clos de Tart, Clos des Lambrays, Clos de la Roche, Clos St Denis and a tiny part of Bonnes Mares
- Recommended Producers: Dujac, Ponsot, Clos de Tart, Domaine des Lambrays
Pinot Noir
Pinot Noir is probably the most frustrating, and at times infuriating, wine grape in the world. However when it is successful, it can produce some of the most sublime wines known to man. This thin-skinned grape which grows in small, tight bunches performs well on well-drained, deepish limestone based subsoils as are found on Burgundy's Côte d'Or.
Pinot Noir is more susceptible than other varieties to over cropping - concentration and varietal character disappear rapidly if yields are excessive and yields as little as 25hl/ha are the norm for some climats of the Côte d`Or.
Because of the thinness of the skins, Pinot Noir wines are lighter in colour, body and tannins. However the best wines have grip, complexity and an intensity of fruit seldom found in wine from other grapes. Young Pinot Noir can smell almost sweet, redolent with freshly crushed raspberries, cherries and redcurrants. When mature, the best wines develop a sensuous, silky mouth feel with the fruit flavours deepening and gamey "sous-bois" nuances emerging.
The best examples are still found in Burgundy, although Pinot Noir`s key role in Champagne should not be forgotten. It is grown throughout the world with notable success in the Carneros and Russian River Valley districts of California, and the Martinborough and Central Otago regions of New Zealand.
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Description
Fresh purple in colour, it’s juicy and pretty on the nose, including some floral notes, with lovely, stylish, elegant red fruit in the mouth, yet with a certain punch behind. Drink 2020-2024.
Jasper Morris MW, Wine Buyer
This mini négociant business has been a great source of high quality, inexpensive wine over the last few years, though Jeremy Seysses notes that it is getting harder and harder to source grapes of the right standard, at a price which still makes sense. We applaud their efforts to date and these 2015s, picked between 7th and 11th September, will once again provide delicious drinking before the domaine wines come round.
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