2015 Langhe Nebbiolo, Ester Canale Rosso, Giovanni Rosso, Piedmont, Italy
Critics reviews
Antonio Galloni, Vinous (August 2018)
About this WINE
Giovanni Rosso
Davide Rosso took over from his father, Giovanni, in the early 2000s. He has since risen quickly in reputation as one of Piedmont’s greatest producers. He may not have the uninterrupted winemaking history of some of his famous neighbours, but he is the envy of many: he has some of the most desirable vineyards in Barolo – Serralunga d’Alba, Cerretta, Serra – showcasing the vivid terroir of his beloved hometown.
His range of single vineyards demonstrates his sensitivity and skill, and his pride for his hometown only magnifies the details of these crus, resulting in wines of rare class and sophistication.
Using traditional cement for fermentation with long gentle macerations, Davide’s wines are timeless, traditional and expertly crafted. His specially made French botti from the Fontainebleau forest are an indicator of Davide’s refined flamboyance. And his vineyards give him the quality of raw material to demonstrate his charm and flair.
He also crafts a small amount of wine in neighbouring Langhe and Roero and an Etna Bianco and Etna Rosso from stunning volcanic sites in Sicily.
Langhe
Langhe is an all-encompassing zone lying due south of Alba and the River Tanaro in the province of Cuneo. Barolo and Barbaresco both lie within its boundaries.
Langhe is also the name of a regional DOC zone, which is used to classify wines made outside of the traditional Piemontese varietal scheme (Nebbiollo, Barbera, Cortese etc). Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc wines from the region are, for example, classified as Langhe DOC.
Langhe Nebbiolo
Effectively the ‘second wine’ of Piedmont’s great Barolo and Barbarescos, the Langhe Nebbiolo DOC is the only way Langhe producers can declassify their Barolo or Barbaresco fruit or wines to make an early-drinking style.
Langhe Nebbiolo can be released onto the market as soon as practicably possible either as a fresh, fruity wine made solely in stainless-steel, or later on having been aged in oak. The Langhe Nebbiolo DOC was created in 1994 along with a plethora of other Langhe DOC wines (so diluting their significance).
Unlike Nebbiolo d’Alba, Langhe Nebbiolo can be cut with 15 percent other red indigenous varieties, such as Barbera or Dolcetto. Leading, quality producers of Barolo and Barbaresco are more inclined to use 100 percent Nebbiolo, recognising its role as a stepping stone, using the fruit from vines that are either too young or poorly situated.
Larger producers tend to use the Langhe Nebbiolo DOC as a valve, declassifying wines destined for Barolo or Barbaresco when the market is difficult. Confusingly Langhe Nebbiolo can also be the declassified wine of Nebbiolo d’Alba.
Recommended producers: Giovanni Rosso di Davide Rosso , Mario Fontana , Ferdinando Principiano
Nebbiolo
Nebbiolo is the grape behind the Barolo and Barbaresco wines and is hardly ever seen outside the confines of Piedmont. It takes its name from "nebbia" which is Italian for fog, a frequent phenomenon in the region.
A notoriously pernickety grape, it requires sheltered south-facing sites and performs best on the well-drained calcareous marls to the north and south of Alba in the DOCG zones of Barbaresco and Barolo.
Langhe Nebbiolo is effectively the ‘second wine’ of Piedmont’s great Barolo & Barbarescos. This DOC is the only way Langhe producers can declassify their Barolo or Barbaresco fruit or wines to make an early-drinking style. Unlike Nebbiolo d’Alba, Langhe Nebbiolo can be cut with 15% other red indigenous varieties, such as Barbera or Dolcetto.
Nebbiolo flowers early and ripens late, so a long hang time, producing high levels of sugar, acidity and tannins; the challenge being to harvest the fruit with these three elements ripe and in balance. The best Barolos and Barbarescos are perfumed with aromas of tar, rose, mint, chocolate, liquorice and truffles. They age brilliantly and the very best need ten years to show at their best.
When is a wine ready to drink?
We provide drinking windows for all our wines. Alongside the drinking windows there is a bottle icon and a maturity stage. Bear in mind that the best time to drink a wine does also depend on your taste.
Not ready
These wines are very young. Whilst they're likely to have lots of intense flavours, their acidity or tannins may make them feel austere. Although it isn't "wrong" to drink these wines now, you are likely to miss out on a lot of complexity by not waiting for them to mature.
Ready - youthful
These wines are likely to have plenty of fruit flavours still and, for red wines, the tannins may well be quite noticeable. For those who prefer younger, fruitier wines, or if serving alongside a robust meal, these will be very enjoyable. If you choose to hold onto these wines, the fruit flavours will evolve into more savoury complexity.
Ready - at best
These wines are likely to have a beautiful balance of fruit, spice and savoury flavours. The acidity and tannins will have softened somewhat, and the wines will show plenty of complexity. For many, this is seen as the ideal time to drink and enjoy these wines. If you choose to hold onto these wines, they will become more savoury but not necessarily more complex.
Ready - mature
These wines are likely to have plenty of complexity, but the fruit flavours will have been almost completely replaced by savoury and spice notes. These wines may have a beautiful texture at this stage of maturity. There is lots to enjoy when drinking wines at this stage. Most of these wines will hold in this window for a few years, though at the very end of this drinking window, wines start to lose complexity and decline.
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Description
This may only be a Langhe Nebbiolo, but it’s made from the fruit of young vines on the fabled Vigna Rionda vineyard in Serralunga and it's very, very good indeed.
Victoria Moore, Daily Telegraph (December 2020)
Named after Davide’s mother, this is no ordinary Langhe Nebbiolo. Giovanni Rosso owns just over a hectare in the legendary Vigna Rionda cru. In 2011 Davide replanted two thirds of this vineyard which had become exhausted, preserving the remaining healthy 70-year-old vines for his iconic Barolo Vigna Rionda. The fruit for this wine comes from those replanted, young vines. The result is a serious wine befitting its vineyard heritage, with a dark core of blueberries, dark cherries and spice, and grippy tannins. Drink 2020-2035.
Matt Smith, Buyer (March 2019)
Davide Rosso makes this Langhe Nebbiolo from the younger vines in Vigna Rionda – one of Barolo, and indeed Piedmont’s, very best vineyards. Vigna Rionda is to Serralunga d’Alba what La Romanée-Conti is to Vosne-Romanée.
This “entry-level” expression offers a “mini” Vigna Rionda Barolo – with pretty aromas of strawberry, cassis and raspberry. Cool and crunchy fruit fills the palate, which is focused and energetic, with lively acidity, silky tannins and a captivating nervosity. Poised, with a saline finish – this is a remarkable expression of a truly special vineyard. Drink now to 2025.
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