2016 Beaune, Les Bressandes, 1er Cru, Domaine des Croix, Burgundy
Critics reviews
Neal Martin - 29/12/2017
About this WINE
Domaine des Croix
The former Domaine Duchet in Beaune has been bought by American Roger Forbes and his co-investors, and entrusted to the care of David Croix, the gifted winemaker for Camille Giroud. David, the emerging talent of the year according to Bourgogne Aujourd'hui magazine (issue no. 73) is in complete charge at the domaine, which has been renamed Domaine des Croix. The first vintage, 2005, comprised Corton-Charlemagne, Bourgogne Rouge, Beaune and various Beaune premiers crus from Pertuisots, Cent Vignes, Bressandes and Grèves. The vineyards have been farmed organically since 2008. From 2009 there will be Aloxe-Corton and Corton Grèves.
Jasper Morris MW, Burgundy Wine Director and author of the award-winning Inside Burgundy comprehensive handbook.
Beaune
The wines of Beaune are usually on the lighter side, especially if from the flatter vineyards on the Pommard side, or the sandier soils towards Savigny. The sturdiest wines with the greatest depth of flavour come from the steeper slopes overlooking the town itself.
The Hospices de Beaune charity auction on the third Sunday in November is one of the highlights of the year. The Hospices building, known as l'Hôtel-Dieu, is well worth visiting. Beaune is also home to several of the region’s best known merchants such as Maisons Louis Jadot and Joseph Drouhin.- 128 hectares of village Beaune and 52 hectares of Côte de Beaune
- 322 hectares of Premier Cru vineyards. The finest vineyards include Les Grèves, Clos des Mouches
- Recommended producers: Germain, Devevey, Domaine des Croix, Jadot, Drouhin, Camille Giroud.
- Recommended restaurants: Ma Cuisine (not least for the wine list), Le Conty
Pinot Noir
Pinot Noir is probably the most frustrating, and at times infuriating, wine grape in the world. However when it is successful, it can produce some of the most sublime wines known to man. This thin-skinned grape which grows in small, tight bunches performs well on well-drained, deepish limestone based subsoils as are found on Burgundy's Côte d'Or.
Pinot Noir is more susceptible than other varieties to over cropping - concentration and varietal character disappear rapidly if yields are excessive and yields as little as 25hl/ha are the norm for some climats of the Côte d`Or.
Because of the thinness of the skins, Pinot Noir wines are lighter in colour, body and tannins. However the best wines have grip, complexity and an intensity of fruit seldom found in wine from other grapes. Young Pinot Noir can smell almost sweet, redolent with freshly crushed raspberries, cherries and redcurrants. When mature, the best wines develop a sensuous, silky mouth feel with the fruit flavours deepening and gamey "sous-bois" nuances emerging.
The best examples are still found in Burgundy, although Pinot Noir`s key role in Champagne should not be forgotten. It is grown throughout the world with notable success in the Carneros and Russian River Valley districts of California, and the Martinborough and Central Otago regions of New Zealand.
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Description
You can really feel the microclimate here, with the position high at the top of the hill on limestone soil adding a refreshing minerality and chalky structure to accompany the bright red cherry fruit. Impressive persistence too. Drink 2022-2029.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer
The former Domaine Duchet in Beaune was bought in 2005 by American Roger Forbes and his co-investors, and entrusted to the care of David Croix, the gifted winemaker for Camille Giroud. The estate has been renamed Domaine des Croix, in honour of David and also the numerous stone crosses to be found in the vineyards. The original Beaune and Corton-Charlemagne vineyards have since been supplemented by Aloxe-Corton, Corton La Vigne au Saint and Corton Grèves. The vineyards are farmed organically. The only thing David Croix doesn’t like in 2016 is the lack of volume. He was full of praise for the quality of the vintage, explaining that the grapes were very healthy at harvest despite the difficult season, and said the aromas in the winery during fermentation were glorious. He describes the wines as “harmonious, with nothing that is out of balance”. No Bourgogne was made this year, there are tiny volumes of village wines and several of the Beaune Premiers Crus have been blended to make a single wine. In fact, only Corton-Charlemagne has achieved anything like a normal yield.
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