2016 Saumur Blanc, Chenin du Puy, Frédéric Mabileau, Loire
About this WINE
Frédéric Mabileau
On the eve of the 2020 harvest, Frédéric Mabileau tragically died in a light aircraft accident. The locals rallied around to help with picking that vintage and his sons – Rémy, who had been working by his side for several years, and Charly, who was running a restaurant in Bordeaux – along with Frédéric’s wife, Nathalie, took over the reins permanently. Based in the village of Saint-Nicolas-De-Bourgueil, the Mabileau vision of biodynamic and organic viticulture continues, along with the spirit of Frédéric’s inexhaustible enthusiasm for experimentation and progressiveness. For Frédéric, the choice to farm biodynamically was not as an end in itself: instead it allowed the wines to reflect the terroir more effectively. This means no yeasts are added in the cellar but a reliance on naturally occurring yeasts to start fermentation. In their view this enhances the “sense of place” of these wines. An ambitious new cellar project was completed in 2020, and in 2019 they acquired a parcel of Chenin Blanc in Montsoreau, on a 30% slope overlooking the Loire. For anyone visiting the Loire Valley, they have a tasting room and have also recently opened a restaurant, Chez Odette, in the village of Saint-Nicolas-De-Bourgueil.
Saumur-Champigny
The Saumur-Champigny wine region is located in the Loire Valley of France, specifically within the Anjou-Saumur area. It is renowned for producing high-quality red wines from Cabernet Franc and has held the prestigious designation of an Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée (AOC) since 1957.
Geographically, the region is situated on the banks of the Loire River, characterized by a diverse terroir that contributes to the unique characteristics of its wines. The vines benefit from a temperate climate influenced by the river, with warm summers and mild winters. The surrounding landscape features limestone slopes and a mix of clay, gravel, and sand soils, providing excellent drainage and ideal conditions for grape cultivation.
The dominant grape variety in Saumur-Champigny is Cabernet Franc, known locally as "Breton." It thrives in the region's terroir and produces red wines renowned for their elegance, finesse, and aromatic complexity. Cabernet Franc from Saumur-Champigny is typically characterized by its vibrant red fruit flavors, including raspberry, red currant, and cherry, along with herbal and floral notes such as violet and graphite.
Winemaking in Saumur-Champigny emphasizes the expression of the grape variety and the unique terroir. Vineyard practices include meticulous grape selection, manual harvesting, and sustainable viticultural techniques. Many producers are also adopting organic and biodynamic farming methods to enhance the quality and authenticity of the wines.
Saumur-Champigny wines are typically aged in various vessels, including stainless steel tanks, oak barrels, or a combination, depending on the winemaker's preferences. The aging process allows the wines to develop further complexity and refine their structure.
These red wines are celebrated for versatility, making them suitable for immediate consumption and aging, and they pair well with various dishes, including roasted meats, game, charcuterie, and cheeses.
Chenin Blanc
Chenin Blanc is an important white grape variety planted in the Anjou-Saumur and Touraine regions of the Loire Valley and the most widely planted varietal grape in South Africa.
In the Loire it produces high quality dry wines in Savenniéres, and luscious sweet, dessert wines in Coteaux du Layon, Bonnezeaux and Quarts de Chaume. In Vouvray and Montlouis it can be dry, medium dry, or sweet, and still or sparkling. Whether dry or sweet, the best Loire Chenin Blancs possess marvellously concentrated rich, honeyed fruit together with refreshingly vibrant acidity. It is Chenin Blanc's high acidity that enable the wines to age so well.
In South Africa Chenin Blanc is easier to grow and is prized for its versatility. It is used as a cheap blending option with Chardonnay, Colombard, and Muscat but also bottled unblended. The best producers keep their yields low and produce impressive mouthfilling wines.
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Description
This is an exuberant and hugely seductive Chenin Blanc, bursting with aromas of apricot and tropical fruit. There’s a well-judged lick of creamy oak, too; the wine has been aged for a year in a combination of foudres and demi-muids. It hails from a sun-kissed, south-facing parcel on clay-limestone in the village of Puy. The grapes here ripen quickly but retain Chenin’s signature acidity; while the wine is richly textured, it still has tremendous poise and freshness. Pair it with fish or chicken à la crème. It’s also great with roast turkey – it’ll go down a storm on Christmas Day. Drink now to 2024
Will Heslop, Buying Assistant, Berry Bros. & Rudd (Oct 2020)
This Saumur showcases why Chenin Blanc from the Loire is some of the best in the world. Delicate and elegant, the wine wafts and embraces the mouth without ever being too much. Judicious use of oak gives the wine a creamy richness, but still a refreshing cleanliness. This is stunning with food but would be happily enjoyed on its own. Perfect for the summer season, it’s easy to drink and fresh without being too citrusy; this is exceptional winemaking, perfectly balanced.
Chris Hanssen, Senior Wine & Spirits Advisor, Berry Bros. & Rudd (June 2021)
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