2017 Barolo, Gattera, Mauro Veglio, Piedmont, Italy

  • Red
  • Dry
  • Full Bodied
  • Nebbiolo
Ready - youthful (Drink 2023 - 2046)
Walter Speller
17++/20
Antonio Galloni
91/100
Monica Larner
91/100
James Suckling
95/100
Product: 20171106136

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2017 Barolo, Gattera, Mauro Veglio, Piedmont, Italy

Description

Lower on the slope and near the Castiglione Falletto border, there’s more limestone here and the soil is poorer than Arborina. This has the estate’s oldest vines; 80% comes from vines planted in 1950. The nose is beautifully floral, heady with herb and violets; the palate is more structured and fine-boned. Evidently, this still has lots to give.

Berry Bros. & Rudd

Colour Red
Sweetness Dry
Vintage 2017
Maturity Ready - youthful (2023 - 2046)
Grape List Nebbiolo
Body Full Bodied
Producer Mauro Veglio

Critics reviews

Walter Speller 17++/20

La Morra. Developing mid ruby with a bright orange-tinged rim. At first, it is a little sweet and candied on the nose, then opens up to cherry and wild strawberry with peppery notes and a suggestion of fruit cake. With aeration, oak notes emerge. Supple, succulent and deep and with super-attractive, chewy tannins. Real finesse and, at the same time, hedonistic. Ready now.

Drink 2021 - 2030

Drink 2021 - 2030
Walter Speller, JancisRobinson.com (Jul 2021)
Antonio Galloni 91/100

The 2017 Barolo Gattera has a bit more weight and density than most of the other wines in this range, but it, too, is a bit fleeting in feel. Dark cherry, mocha, spice, leather and menthol bring out slightly darker tonalities of Nebbiolo fruit.

Drink 2023 - 2033

Drink 2023 - 2033
Antonio Galloni, Vinous.com (Feb 2021)
Monica Larner 91/100

This vintage from Mauro Veglio is a degree lighter in colour and contrasts, and that less-saturated appearance is a common trait found across many of the wines from this warm and hot growing season. The Nebbiolo grape is particularly colour-sensitive, and the 2017 Barolo Gattera sees its fruit sourced from 70-year-old vines in La Morra, a site that is already earmarked for its delicate and nuanced approach.

The bouquet is broad and not totally defined here, with some exotic fruit that is mixed with wild berry and peach blossom. I feel that the wine is short in the mid-palate, and that prompts me to suggest a shorter drinking window as a result. I am less convinced by this 9,000-bottle Gattera release than I am by the other wines in this flight from Mauro Veglio.

Drink 2023 - 2037

Drink 2023 - 2037
Monica Larner, Wine Advocate (Jun 2021)
James Suckling 95/100

A firm, fine-tannined Barolo, yet very structured and intense with ripe-strawberry, cedar and lemon-peel character. Medium to full body. Tar and walnut to the bright fruit. Tight finish. Give this time to open.

Best after 2024

James Suckling, JamesSuckling.com (Jun 2021)

About this wine

Nebbiolo

Nebbiolo is the grape behind the Barolo and Barbaresco wines and is hardly ever seen outside the confines of Piedmont. It takes its name from "nebbia" which is Italian for fog, a frequent phenomenon in the region.
Find out more

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