2017 Santenay Blanc, Clos des Gravières, 1er Cru, Domaine Hubert Lamy, Burgundy
Critics reviews
William Kelley - 31/01/2019
About this WINE
Domaine Hubert Lamy
There have been Lamys growing vines in St-Aubin since 1640 - today it is run by Olivier Lamy. Olivier is representative of a new breed of Burgundian grower keen to progress. He worked at Méo-Camuzet before taking over in 1996 from father Hubert. Olivier ceased supplying négociants in 1997, grubbing up and selling off peripheral vines, keeping only the best and oldest sites. Currently he is experimenting with different planting densities in a quest to capture even greater expression of terroir.
The domaine produces both reds and whites and now has 16.5 hectares of vineyards, mostly in St-Aubin but a few parcels in Chassagne-Montrachet and a tiny plot in the Grand Cru Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet. Yields are kept low and a recent innovation has been the introduction of selection tables in the cuverie to ensure that only the healthiest and ripest grapes are used.
Vinification is traditional and the wines are matured in oak casks (20-30% new) for 12 months before minimal filtration and then bottling. The quality is very high and is often superior to many wines from more fashionable villages that sell at twice the price.
Santenay
Santenay, situated in the southern part of the Côte de Beaune in Burgundy, France, is known for producing some of the world’s most prestigious and sought-after wines. The terroir of Santenay is diverse, featuring limestone and clay soils, which play a crucial role in shaping the unique character and flavours of the wines.
The region’s winemaking heritage dates back centuries, with a deep-rooted tradition of crafting exceptional Pinot Noir and Chardonnay wines. The village’s vineyards benefit from a favourable microclimate that promotes grape ripening while retaining freshness and balance in the wines.
The red wines often exhibit a harmonious blend of red fruit flavours, such as cherry and raspberry, and subtle earthy and spice undertones. The tannins in these wines are typically refined and well-integrated, contributing to their elegance and age-worthiness.
On the other hand, Santenay’s white wines are characterised by their bright acidity, offering refreshing citrus and orchard fruit notes with a hint of minerality.
Winemakers in Santenay take pride in following a traditional and artisanal approach to winemaking, emphasising the importance of respecting the land and expressing the unique terroir in each bottle. They aim to capture the essence of the vineyards and the nuances of the grape varieties, resulting in authentic wines that reflect their origin.
Santenay’s picturesque landscapes and dedication to producing high-quality wines attract wine enthusiasts and connoisseurs worldwide. It is a region where history, tradition, and innovation intersect, making it a compelling destination for anyone seeking to explore Burgundy’s exceptional wines and winemaking culture.
Chardonnay
Chardonnay is often seen as the king of white wine grapes and one of the most widely planted in the world It is suited to a wide variety of soils, though it excels in soils with a high limestone content as found in Champagne, Chablis, and the Côte D`Or.
Burgundy is Chardonnay's spiritual home and the best White Burgundies are dry, rich, honeyed wines with marvellous poise, elegance and balance. They are unquestionably the finest dry white wines in the world. Chardonnay plays a crucial role in the Champagne blend, providing structure and finesse, and is the sole grape in Blanc de Blancs.
It is quantitatively important in California and Australia, is widely planted in Chile and South Africa, and is the second most widely planted grape in New Zealand. In warm climates Chardonnay has a tendency to develop very high sugar levels during the final stages of ripening and this can occur at the expense of acidity. Late picking is a common problem and can result in blowsy and flabby wines that lack structure and definition.
Recently in the New World, we have seen a move towards more elegant, better- balanced and less oak-driven Chardonnays, and this is to be welcomed.
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Description
This is an excellent white wine vineyard, sunny and high in limestone. It has an appealing citrus note and some interesting creamy notes on the mid-palate, while the finish is quite dense, hiding the usual lemony acidity, but also foretelling the complexity to come. Drink 2023-2029.
This is another small harvest for Olivier. There was frost again in 2017 for the vineyards closest to Puligny and Oliviers detailed vineyard work on the vines badly frosted in 2016 has restricted this years yield as well. For some cuves, volumes in white for 2017 are half that of the already paltry 2016. Olivier began harvesting before his neighbours, which is not unusual, on 25th August, but he likes the style of the vintage, in particular the extra density on the palate. His reds he defines ascroquant (crunchy).
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