2017 Morey-St Denis, Les Millandes, 1er Cru, Dom. Sérafin Père & Fils

2017 Morey-St Denis, Les Millandes, 1er Cru, Dom. Sérafin Père & Fils

Product: 20178018171
Prices start from £100.00 per bottle (75cl). Buying options
2017 Morey-St Denis, Les Millandes, 1er Cru, Dom. Sérafin Père & Fils

Description

Sérafin has two plots in this well-regarded Premier Cru, one with 60-year-old vines, the other closer to 40 years old. The purity and delicacy of the vineyard is evident and, given the vineyard’s proximity to both Clos de la Roche and Clos St Denis, there is much elegance in evidence too. Drink 2022-2027.

The harvest was done early and quickly here, starting on 6th September and finished by 12th. Karine Sérafin explained that the estate was harvesting earlier than before, to keep more freshness in the wines, and also working more with leaf coverage. The old vines negated any need to green harvest and yields are up by only 20 percent from 2016, but otherwise Karine and her cousin Frédérique are intent on preserving the individuality of Christian Sérafin’s style for vins de garde, with 100 percent new oak for everything upwards from the Gevrey Vieilles Vignes.
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About this WINE

Domaine Christian Serafin

Domaine Christian Serafin

This domaine was originally put on the map by Christian Sérafin’s father, Stanislaus Sérafin, a Polish émigré, who settled in Burgundy before the war. He initially worked as a mason, before purchasing some land in 1947 and establishing himself as a vigneron. His son Christian inherited the domaine in 1988, though he had been making the wine for the previous 20 years. Christian Sérafin is now past retirement age, but with his niece Frédérique in the vineyards and cuverie, and daughter Karine in the office, continuity is in place.

Frédérique and Karine may be expanding the cellar, and while they offer a youthful energy, the winemaking here remains reassuringly familiar and loyal to the house style. The emphasis here is on old vines and low yields, with strict pruning and de-budding, followed by a green harvest and deleafing on both sides.

From the Gevrey Vieilles Vignes upwards, everything sees 100% new oak, all the fruit is de-stemmed, fermented at a highish temperature to ensure good depth of colour and fruit, and bottled unfiltered. The wines are built to last, eschewing the modern trend for light, pretty wines which can be drunk practically from the barrel. These powerful wines age exceptionally well.

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Morey-Saint-Denis

Morey-Saint-Denis

Morey is sometimes ignored between its two famous neighbours, Chambolle-Musigny and Gevrey-Chambertin, but its wines are of equal class, combining elegance and structure. Morey-St Denis, being that little bit less famous, can often provide excellent value.

The four main Grand Cru vineyards continue in a line from those of Gevrey-Chambertin, with Clos St Denis and Clos de la Roche the most widely available. Clos des Lambrays (almost) and Clos de Tart (entirely) are monopolies of the domains which bear the same names.

Domaine Dujac and Domaine Ponsot also make rare white wines in Morey-St Denis.

  • 64 hectares of village Morey-St Denis
  • 33 hectares of Premier Cru vineyards (20 in all). Best vineyards include Les Charmes, Les Millandes, Clos de la Bussière, Les Monts Luisants
  • 40 hectares of Grand Cru vineyard. Clos de Tart, Clos des Lambrays, Clos de la Roche, Clos St Denis and a tiny part of Bonnes Mares
  • Recommended Producers: Dujac, Ponsot, Clos de Tart, Domaine des Lambrays

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Pinot Noir

Pinot Noir

Pinot Noir is probably the most frustrating, and at times infuriating, wine grape in the world. However when it is successful, it can produce some of the most sublime wines known to man. This thin-skinned grape which grows in small, tight bunches performs well on well-drained, deepish limestone based subsoils as are found on Burgundy's Côte d'Or.

Pinot Noir is more susceptible than other varieties to over cropping - concentration and varietal character disappear rapidly if yields are excessive and yields as little as 25hl/ha are the norm for some climats of the Côte d`Or.

Because of the thinness of the skins, Pinot Noir wines are lighter in colour, body and tannins. However the best wines have grip, complexity and an intensity of fruit seldom found in wine from other grapes. Young Pinot Noir can smell almost sweet, redolent with freshly crushed raspberries, cherries and redcurrants. When mature, the best wines develop a sensuous, silky mouth feel with the fruit flavours deepening and gamey "sous-bois" nuances emerging.

The best examples are still found in Burgundy, although Pinot Noir`s key role in Champagne should not be forgotten. It is grown throughout the world with notable success in the Carneros and Russian River Valley districts of California, and the Martinborough and Central Otago regions of New Zealand.

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Reviews

Customer reviews

Wine Advocate89-91+/100

Critic reviews

Wine Advocate89-91+/100
The 2017 Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru Les Millandes exhibits aromas of smoky wild berries, dark chocolate, warm spices and orange rind. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, firm and chewy, with juicy acids and abundant structuring tannin and extract. I suspect it will round out by the time it's bottled.
William Kelley - 31/01/2019 Read more