2017 Volnay, Les Santenots, 1er Cru, Domaine Y. Clerget, Burgundy
Critics reviews
This is also relatively deeply pitched though the fruit is not quite as fresh as there is a roasted plum and earth character to it. Otherwise, there is better energy on the palate of the medium-bodied flavours that evidence a taut muscularity that also characterizes the sneaky long finish. While the nose may well recover, I prefer to remain conservative.
Drink from 2025 onward
Allen Meadows, Burghound.com (April 2019)
Clerget's Volnay Les Santenots 1er Cru is one of the more overtly ripe wines in the lineup. Kirsch, red raspberries, mint and wildflowers are all given an extra kick of raciness in the Santenots, a wine that really stands out for its nuance, suppleness and flat-out deliciousness.
Thibaud Clerget's 2017s are very pretty wines that build on the successes of the 2015s and 2016s, although the vintage's more modest structure and depth are very much in evidence. Harvest began on September 3 and lasted five days. The wines are generally made with fully destemmed fruit, although the Clos Vougeot is done with about 50% whole clusters.
The fruit saw 5-10 days of cold soak and 20-25 days on the skins. Élevage was 11-12 months in oak. I tasted all of the 2017s from tank before bottling. Thibaud Clerget remains one of his generation's most bright and promising growers. What he has accomplished at a young age is already quite remarkable.
Antonio Galloni, Vinous.com (July 2019)
About this WINE
Domaine Clerget
Christian Clerget runs this six hectare domaine in succession to his father Georges. The highlights are a substantial parcel of Echezeaux, from the Les Orveaux sub-division, a fine Chambolle Musigny 1er cru Les Charmes, and Vougeot 1er Cru Les Petits Vougeots. There are village wines from Vougeot, Morey St Denis, Chambolle-Musigny and Vosne-Romanée. The wines are made in an elegant style from destemmed grapes, grown under an organic regime.
Jasper Morris MW, Burgundy Wine Director and author of the award-winning Inside Burgundy comprehensive handbook.
Volnay
The finest and most elegant red wines of the Côte de Beaune are grown in Volnay, a village which might be twinned with Chambolle- Musigny in the Côte de Nuits, for the high active chalk content in the soil and comparatively low clay content.
Whereas in earlier times Volnay was made in a particularly light, early drinking style, these days there are many producers making wines which age extremely well. The best vineyards run either side of the RN73 trunk road.- 98 hectares of village Volnay
- 115 hectares of Premier Cru vineyards (35 in all). The finest include Les Taillepieds, Clos des Chênes, Champans, Caillerets (including Clos des 60 Ouvrées) and Santenots in Meursault.
- Recommended producers: Lafarge, Lafon, de Montille
Pinot Noir
Pinot Noir is probably the most frustrating, and at times infuriating, wine grape in the world. However when it is successful, it can produce some of the most sublime wines known to man. This thin-skinned grape which grows in small, tight bunches performs well on well-drained, deepish limestone based subsoils as are found on Burgundy's Côte d'Or.
Pinot Noir is more susceptible than other varieties to over cropping - concentration and varietal character disappear rapidly if yields are excessive and yields as little as 25hl/ha are the norm for some climats of the Côte d`Or.
Because of the thinness of the skins, Pinot Noir wines are lighter in colour, body and tannins. However the best wines have grip, complexity and an intensity of fruit seldom found in wine from other grapes. Young Pinot Noir can smell almost sweet, redolent with freshly crushed raspberries, cherries and redcurrants. When mature, the best wines develop a sensuous, silky mouth feel with the fruit flavours deepening and gamey "sous-bois" nuances emerging.
The best examples are still found in Burgundy, although Pinot Noir`s key role in Champagne should not be forgotten. It is grown throughout the world with notable success in the Carneros and Russian River Valley districts of California, and the Martinborough and Central Otago regions of New Zealand.
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Description
This is also relatively deeply pitched though the fruit is not quite as fresh as there is a roasted plum and earth character to it. Otherwise, there is better energy on the palate of the medium-bodied flavours that evidence a taut muscularity that also characterizes the sneaky long finish. While the nose may well recover, I prefer to remain conservative.
Drink from 2025 onward
Allen Meadows, Burghound.com (April 2019)
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