2018 Meursault, Les Chevalières, Domaine Coche-Bizouard, Burgundy

2018 Meursault, Les Chevalières, Domaine Coche-Bizouard, Burgundy

Product: 20181064562
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2018 Meursault, Les Chevalières, Domaine Coche-Bizouard, Burgundy

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Description

Les Chevalières is arguably one of Meursault’s “Deuxième Crus”. It sits on the same band of soil as the Premiers Crus but was deemed to be facing a little too much to the east when the maps were drawn. However, with the advent of climate change, this has proved beneficial in retaining freshness. This is an elegant and fine expression of Meursault: initially rounded with a silken texture, it finishes on a crystalline note. There is oak here, but it is so well-judged as to not warrant mention.

Drink 2022-2029

Adam Bruntlett, Senior Wine Buyer, Berry Bros. & Rudd (May 2021)

wine at a glance

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About this WINE

Domaine Fabien Coche

Domaine Fabien Coche

Fabien Coche is a fourth-generation vigneron who took over from his father, Alain, in 2005. From the ’20 vintage the name of the domaine changed from Coche-Bizouard to Fabien Coche. The Coche family is well known in Burgundy: Raphaël Coche-Dury is a cousin, and the two domaines were one until they split in 1949.

Fabien’s shunning of the limelight and understated winemaking have kept him relatively under the radar. A pragmatic and forward-thinking winemaker, he moved in 2007 from the cramped family cellars in Meursault to a more practical, purpose-built premises outside the village.

He uses more and more large-format oak (foudres and 500- to 600-litre barrels) to minimise oxidation in the face of warmer, riper vintages. After several years of trials, he now uses Diam “Origine” corks (made with beeswax) across the range to ensure consistent ageing. He farms organically, not for any commercial motivation but out of respect for the health of those working in the vineyard.

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Meursault

Meursault

There are more top producers in Meursault than in any other commune of the Côte d’Or. Certainly it is the most famous and popular of the great white appellations. Its wines are typically rich and savoury with nutty, honeyed hints and buttery, vanilla spice from the oak.

Even though it is considerably larger than its southerly neighbours Chassagne and Puligny, Meursault contains no Grands Crus. Its three best Premiers Crus, however – Les Perrières, Les Genevrières and Les Charmes – produce some of the region’s greatest whites: they are full, round and powerful, and age very well. Les Perrières in particular can produce wines of Grand Cru quality, a fact that is often reflected in its price. Meursault has also been one of the driving forces of biodynamic viticulture in the region, as pioneered by Lafon and Leflaive.

Many of the vineyards below Premier Cru, known as ‘village’ wines, are also well worth looking at. The growers vinify their different vineyard holdings separately, which rarely happens in Puligny or Chassagne. Such wines can be labelled with the ‘lieu-dit’ vineyard alongside (although in smaller type to) the Meursault name.

Premier Cru Meursault should be enjoyed from five to 15 years of age, although top examples can last even longer. Village wines, meanwhile, are normally at their best from three to 10 years.

Very occasionally, red Meursault is produced with some fine, firm results. The best red Pinot Noir terroir, Les Santenots, is afforded the courtesy title of Volnay Santenots, even though it is actually in Meursault.

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Chardonnay

Chardonnay

Chardonnay is often seen as the king of white wine grapes and one of the most widely planted in the world It is suited to a wide variety of soils, though it excels in soils with a high limestone content as found in Champagne, Chablis, and the Côte D`Or.

Burgundy is Chardonnay's spiritual home and the best White Burgundies are dry, rich, honeyed wines with marvellous poise, elegance and balance. They are unquestionably the finest dry white wines in the world. Chardonnay plays a crucial role in the Champagne blend, providing structure and finesse, and is the sole grape in Blanc de Blancs.

It is quantitatively important in California and Australia, is widely planted in Chile and South Africa, and is the second most widely planted grape in New Zealand. In warm climates Chardonnay has a tendency to develop very high sugar levels during the final stages of ripening and this can occur at the expense of acidity. Late picking is a common problem and can result in blowsy and flabby wines that lack structure and definition.

Recently in the New World, we have seen a move towards more elegant, better- balanced and less oak-driven Chardonnays, and this is to be welcomed.

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