2018 Etna Rosso, Giovanni Rosso, Sicily, Italy
Pale but vibrant ruby in colour, from 6.5ha of 45-year-old vines on the northern slopes of Etna at 750m. So fragrant it’s crazy, soft raspberry and cranberry fruits, this is far more intense on the nose than you expect from the colour. Very approachable, easy to enjoy, fragrant with rolling waves of summer fruits, orange peel and earthy dried herbs.
No need to wait to drink this, although you feel gentle tannins guiding your way through the palate. Easy to recommend this wine from Davide Rosse (originally from Piedmont, and you can see something of the delicacy of nebbiolo here, the whisper of a variety that specialises in gentle persuasion). Aged in an array of differently sized French oak barrels and casks. Got to be the best value wine of the September Releases.
Drink 2021 - 2030
Jane Anson, janeanson.com
A lovely pale orange-red tinge to the wine in the glass. Such an aromatic nose filled with iron filings, wet stone and summer berry fruits alongside violet touches. It has such freshness on the tongue, immediately juicy and then fills out with density of flavour. There’s a captivating rusticity to this with a savoury, almost herbal element edging the bright cherry and raspberry fruit.
Soft tannins and lively acidity. A star-value buy. Made with native grape Nerello Mascalese with small percentages of other local and indigenous varieties. Vines are planted on volcanic soil in a north/northeastern site 750 metres in altitude. First vintage 2016. Production 20,600 bottles
Drink 2021 - 2029
Georgina Hindle, Decanter.com (July2021)
About this WINE
Davide Rosso took over from his father, Giovanni, in the early 2000s. He has since risen quickly in reputation as one of the region’s greatest producers, with some of the most desirable vineyards in Barolo, showcasing the vivid terroir of his beloved hometown. The steep spine of Serralunga d’Alba creates wines of authority, power and raw minerality, which need a careful hand to reveal their intricacies. Davide’s Barolo di Commune di Serralunga d’Alba gives us a wide-angle view of this calcareous terroir and gleaming 2018 vintage personality. But it is his range of single vineyards that demonstrates his sensitivity and skill; his pride for Serralunga d’Alba only magnifies the details of these crus, resulting in wines of rare class and sophistication.
The magnificent white soils of Serralunga d’Alba enhance this remarkable release. The 2018 vintage did not have the extreme weather of 2017, and the wines are finer, calmer and more expressive because of it. Water, sun and temperate aligned, enabling Davide and winemaker Andrea to create wines with perfume, pleasure and physical presence. The wines are composed with the typical austerity we know from Serralunga, woven with the silkiness of tannins. Davide’s Vigna Rionda vineyard is one of the most sought-after in the region, and has become a trophy for many collectors. But in 2018, his Serra and Cerretta crus both yielded exceptional wines of brightness and charm, brimming with Serralunga’s enduring mineral tension.
There are over 200 different grape varieties used in modern wine making (from a total of over 1000). Most lesser known blends and varieties are traditional to specific parts of the world.
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The Nerello Mascalese vines were planted in 1975, the vineyard is rooted on the slopes above Solichhiata at 750 meters asl. The 2017 represents Davide’s second vintage release since he partnered with local Etna hero, Alberto Graci. Soft maceration of the skins, aids this wines aromatic complexity and graceful structure.
The nose is fragrant and inviting, rose, violet, prune, rosemary mixed with cranberry, blood orange, white pepper & strawberry leaf. There is delightful immediacy of fruit on the palate, just delicious. But also savoury depth and striking minerality and poise. The tannins are silky, well managed from the time spent in mixed French oak.
Although proudly Sicilian in style, there is a unquestionable resemblance in style to Davide’s beloved wines of Serralunga d’Alba. With crunchy fruit purity and mineral grip you can identify his style, as he uses the same sensitivity which has made him famous for expressing Nebbiolo. Characterized by Davide’ signature polish and power, this is SO enjoyable now but will develop.
Drink now to 2035
Davy Żyw, Wine Buyer, Berry Bros. & Rudd (October 2021)
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