2018 Barolo, Bricco Ambrogio, Bruna Grimaldi, Piedmont, Italy

Cantina Bruna Grimaldi

In the 1950s, Giacomo Grimaldi set his family on a quality winemaking path. This saw him move away from bulk production, introduce pioneering viticultural practices, nurture vineyard wellbeing and introduce vintage bottlings. In 1990, the winery passed into the hands of his daughter Bruna. The cantina was consequently renamed. Alongside her husband Franco, she bought new vineyards and built a new winery in the heart of Grizane Cavour.  

The Grimaldi family have deep roots in the Langhe; their original vineyards link the ancient hills between Grizane Cavour and Serralunga d’Alba. Over the generations, their holdings have expanded across the northern and eastern areas of the Barolo area, totalling 14 hectares. Today, the property is run by Bruna’s two children, Simone and Martina. 

Their blended Barolo Classico, “Camilla”, is a careful selection of all their Barolo vineyards; it therefore gives us a reliable view of the vintage character of 2018. The growing year had its challenges in the vineyards – most notably, the levels of water – but Simone demonstrated his skill as a winemaker. His candid approach suits the gentle, fruit-forward succulence of the vintage. Simone and Martina respect tradition, utilising many time-honoured methods in the cantina. But unlike their forebearers, the duo have a refreshingly modern outlook; one can feel their energy in the distinctive range of wines. This winery is quickly realising its potential, and this new generation will inevitably propel their family name to stardom.  

Nebbiolo

Nebbiolo is the grape behind the Barolo and Barbaresco wines and is hardly ever seen outside the confines of Piedmont. It takes its name from "nebbia" which is Italian for fog, a frequent phenomenon in the region.

A notoriously pernickety grape, it requires sheltered south-facing sites and performs best on the well-drained calcareous marls to the north and south of Alba in the DOCG zones of Barbaresco and Barolo.

Langhe Nebbiolo is effectively the ‘second wine’ of Piedmont’s great Barolo & Barbarescos. This DOC is the only way Langhe producers can declassify their Barolo or Barbaresco fruit or wines to make an early-drinking style. Unlike Nebbiolo d’Alba, Langhe Nebbiolo can be cut with 15% other red indigenous varieties, such as Barbera or Dolcetto.

Nebbiolo flowers early and ripens late, so a long hang time, producing high levels of sugar, acidity and tannins; the challenge being to harvest the fruit with these three elements ripe and in balance. The best Barolos and Barbarescos are perfumed with aromas of tar, rose, mint, chocolate, liquorice and truffles. They age brilliantly and the very best need ten years to show at their best.