2018 Corton-Charlemagne, Grand Cru, Jean-Marc Roulot, Burgundy

Domaine Guy Roulot

Jean-Marc Roulot has been in charge since 1989, when he decided to stay with the vines rather than to pursue a full time career as an actor on stage and film, subsequently bringing a fine domaine up into the very top league. He is one of the few producers who has managed to move from heavier to purer wines without losing anything of the wine’s potential quality and complexity. Everything is still in place, both the greater pull of fabulous white Burgundy and the more detailed intricacies of the subtle differences between one terroir and another.
 
The wines are built, not in the sense of any artificial construction, but by the weaving of layers one upon another. These are exceptional Meursaults which show their real class at 10 years old. The vineyards have been farmed organically since 1999, with some experiments in biodynamics - all is in place for first class raw material and Jean-Marc is not afraid to pick early if the condition of the grapes suggests it. Where the skins of the grapes are healthy, Jean-Marc likes to crush them before pressing, which he finds gives a greener juice with a degree more acidity but without changing the pH of the wine. The barrels fulfil their role of aerating the wine, with no more than 20% new wood for village wines and 25-30% for the crus.

Jasper Morris MW, Burgundy Wine Director and author of the award-winning Inside Burgundy comprehensive handbook.

Corton-Charlemagne

There are two specific Charlemagne vineyards, En Charlemagne and Le Charlemagne, making up half the Corton-Charlemagne appellation, while white grapes grown in seven other vineyards (see list below) may also be sold as Corton-Charlemagne. As a result there can be a wide divergence in style between a south-facing location such as Pougets, which needs picking right at the start of the harvest, and the western slopes in Pernand-Vergelesses which might be picked several weeks later. The underlying similarity though comes from the minerality of the soil.

En Charlemagne lies at the border with Aloxe-Corton. The hillside faces west and fine, racy white wines can be made, but the Grand Cru appellation has been extended right up to the village of Pernand itself, by which time the exposition is north-west and the valley has become noticeably more enclosed. The final sector was only promoted in 1966, and probably should not have been.

Le Charlemagne is the absolute heartland of the appellation, facing south-west, thus avoiding the risk of over-ripeness which can afflict the vines exposed due south. If I had Corton-Charlemagne vines here I would be tempted to let the world know by labelling the wine as Corton-Charlemagne, Le Charlemagne.

Two producers to my knowledge also have some Pinot Noir planted here – Follin-Arbelet and Bonneau du Martray. Both make attractive wines but neither, to my mind, justifies Grand Cru status for red wine, lacking the extra dimensions of flavour one hopes for at the highest level. This is not the producers’ fault, but a reflection of the terroir.

Chardonnay

Chardonnay is often seen as the king of white wine grapes and one of the most widely planted in the world It is suited to a wide variety of soils, though it excels in soils with a high limestone content as found in Champagne, Chablis, and the Côte D`Or.

Burgundy is Chardonnay's spiritual home and the best White Burgundies are dry, rich, honeyed wines with marvellous poise, elegance and balance. They are unquestionably the finest dry white wines in the world. Chardonnay plays a crucial role in the Champagne blend, providing structure and finesse, and is the sole grape in Blanc de Blancs.

It is quantitatively important in California and Australia, is widely planted in Chile and South Africa, and is the second most widely planted grape in New Zealand. In warm climates Chardonnay has a tendency to develop very high sugar levels during the final stages of ripening and this can occur at the expense of acidity. Late picking is a common problem and can result in blowsy and flabby wines that lack structure and definition.

Recently in the New World, we have seen a move towards more elegant, better- balanced and less oak-driven Chardonnays, and this is to be welcomed.