Thymiopoulos Vineyards

Apostolos Thymiopoulos has been described as Greece’s rising star and, having tasted his Earth and Sky Xinomavro, I can understand why. His father used to sell his grape production to other winemakers until Apostolos finished his winemaking studies at Athens University and began to experiment with making wine from the family’s vineyards. 2003 was his first vintage and his only label was Earth and Sky. 95% of it was exported abroad.

Today the estate, situated in Trilofos (close to the school of Aristotle) at the southern tip of the Naoussa region, practises biodynamic viticulture on a variety of soils ranging from schist to red marble and granite. Naoussa is warm, but not hot, in summer and often extremely cold in winter. In fact, it shares the same mean annual temperature as Bordeaux. Unlike many of their neighbours, Thymiopoulos do not irrigate their vines. This approach is adopted to avoid increasing tannins in a variety that is already abundantly possessed of phenolic compounds. In this endeavour they singularly succeed. Their super organic approach extends to pest control. Turkeys and guinea fowl keep locusts and other unwelcome insects at bay.

Harvesting is by hand towards the end of September/early October, and the grapes are carefully selected and taken by conveyor belts to stainless steel tanks for a natural fermentation followed by a spontaneous malolactic conversion in 500 litre barrels (30% in second fill barrels; the rest in up to 5 year old barrels) for 18 months. The wines are hand-bottled unfined and unfiltered. Their method is careful and unhurried; an artisanal approach.
Demetri Walters MW, Hellenic Wines Specialist

Naousa

Naoussa, located in the heart of Macedonia on the eastern slopes of Mount Vermion, 92km west of Thessaloniki was one of the first AOC (aka OPAP) regions in Greece and produces well-structured, full-bodied, long-lived red wines made from the native grape Xinomavro.

The vineyards of Naoussa are situated at an altitude of 330m and are exposed to a Mediterranean climate with strong continental influences. Quality estates reduce the vine yields by green-harvesting, to allow the grapes to mature in this cool climate. 

Xynomavro, the sole variety permitted under the Naousa  appellation and is the mainstay grape of west Macedonia (appellations of Amyntaio, Goumenissa, Giannitsa). It is regarded as one of two potential-laden red varieties (the other being Agiorgitiko) on which Greece's international status as a wine-producing nation can rest.

The name Xynomavro refers to the inherent high acidity (xyno=bitter). It is a versatile grape, producing a variety of styles, from fruity roses and early-drinking red wines (from vineyards in the commune of Trilofos) to long-lived, complex examples from the “cru” communes of Yanakohori, Marina, Naoussa and Polla Nera.

The typical Xynomavro wines of Naoussa are full-bodied, noted for their savoury character (spices, ripe tomatoes, black olives, violets, wild strawberries, overlaid by notes of dark chocolate and leather) as well as the high acidity and tannic structure that allows them to age gracefully. These wines are not for the faint-hearted and won’t be a first choice for those graduating from fruity, easy-drinking New World reds. Yet, they are immensely rewarding with their complexity, individuality and age development, for which they bear many similarities with the great Nebbiolos of Piedmont.

Naousan winemakers are also looking beyond Xynomavro: many now cultivate international varieties, showcasing single-varietal wines from Merlot and Syrah (as regional Vin de Pays d’ Imathia).

Xinomavro

Where should one begin with the litany of difficulties that beset the culture of this grape? Xinomavro's greatest disadvantage is its rapid lignification. Once the grapes have achieved sufficient sugars, the stems can already be snapped! This adds to the potentially towering tannins that Xinomavro possesses. This is further compounded by its grapes possessing 3-4 seeds per berry rather than the usual 1-2. Thankfully its skins are thin and weak.

Whilst vigorous, particularly when water is overly abundant due to all-too-frequent irrigation in much of Naoussa, it is a slow ripener. This is not aided by fertile soils or inappropriate irrigation that can both lead to overly high yields and subsequent unripe tannins and vegetal aromas and flavours.

In terms of its raw material, Xinomavro is an ancient variety with numerous clones. 3 of these produce small berries on small bunches that, if well handled, can create relatively fine-grained tannins, delicate aromas and bright pigmentation. These better clones are nowadays the basis of the best wines, whilst the other clones are often employed for increasingly attractive rosé wines.