2019 Gevrey-Chambertin, Lavaux St Jacques, 1er Cru, Arnaud Mortet, Burgundy

Arnaud Mortet

Not content with just running the family estate (Domaine Denis Mortet), Arnaud Mortet created his own label. This exciting project was made possible by a retiring vigneron, who passed a four-hectare estate to him and his sister, Clémence. Their first vintage was 2016.

Arnaud carries out all the vineyard work with his team – to the same, exacting standards applied to the family vines – and then buys the fruit from the proprietor. Technically, this makes it a négociant business, but in reality he has 100% control of the vineyards and the winemaking. The circa four hectares are spread around Gevrey-Chambertin – the majority 50-year-old village vines, and then similarly old-vine plots across the Premiers Crus La Perrière and Lavaux St Jacques and Grands Crus Mazoyères and Charmes.

The vineyards are relatively old. Arnaud believes that the plant material is similar to that at Domaine Maume, giving quite large but well-spaced bunches of grapes providing good aeration for the fruit, meaning rot and other fungal diseases are not an issue.

The winemaking will evolve as Arnaud gains more confidence in the health of the vineyards, feeling that the quality of the fruit has to be perfect for his normal practices to work fully. He therefore intends to be more cautious with regards to new oak and whole-bunch usage in early vintages of these wines, before the style mirrors that of the Domaine Denis Mortet range.

Arnaud Mortet is exclusive to Berry Bros. & Rudd in the UK.

Best of BBX: Burgundy

For red Burgundy, look to 2019. This “solar” vintage produced wines with density and freshness. For white Burgundy, 2020 is considered among the best white vintage since 2017.

Pinot Noir

Pinot Noir is probably the most frustrating, and at times infuriating, wine grape in the world. However when it is successful, it can produce some of the most sublime wines known to man. This thin-skinned grape which grows in small, tight bunches performs well on well-drained, deepish limestone based subsoils as are found on Burgundy's Côte d'Or.

Pinot Noir is more susceptible than other varieties to over cropping - concentration and varietal character disappear rapidly if yields are excessive and yields as little as 25hl/ha are the norm for some climats of the Côte d`Or.

Because of the thinness of the skins, Pinot Noir wines are lighter in colour, body and tannins. However the best wines have grip, complexity and an intensity of fruit seldom found in wine from other grapes. Young Pinot Noir can smell almost sweet, redolent with freshly crushed raspberries, cherries and redcurrants. When mature, the best wines develop a sensuous, silky mouth feel with the fruit flavours deepening and gamey "sous-bois" nuances emerging.

The best examples are still found in Burgundy, although Pinot Noir`s key role in Champagne should not be forgotten. It is grown throughout the world with notable success in the Carneros and Russian River Valley districts of California, and the Martinborough and Central Otago regions of New Zealand.